I begin this motorcycle travelogue with a thought provoking quote by Albert.Einstein which in 2020 would include the "MOTORCYCLE" as a sane way to keep your balance while moving on in life.In 2020 Covid-19 Pandemic has created havoc globally ,claiming lives and creating job losses and poverty.When would a vaccine akin to the "Atom Bomb" but for human preservation and not destruction be discovered to rid Planet Earth from this pandemic of a century.
BRIEF SUMMARY OF MY ADVENTURE BIKE RIDE" :- On Wednesday(25/11/2020) left my house in Old Prabhadevi road in Mumbai at 0630 hrs for destination "JAWHAR HILL STATION" in Palghar district of Maharashtra and returned back home at 1645 hrs having travelled over 320 Kms in a single day. Non stop motorcycling on the oldest bike in continuous production "RE Standard 350".After my near fatal motorcycle accident on Sunday 16 February this was my first long distance ride and realized that the old race horse has not lost much of class or form .Ahoy ! Enjoyed a excellent pure vegetarian Thali local lunch in Jawhar Hill Station costing only Rs 200.One of my best motorcycle rides as akin to Geographical climatic topography changes the roads, highways and village tracks from Mumbai to Jawhar city and back home changed from "Moto Gp" circuit highways, to potholes and gravel dirt tracks that only a "Royal Enfield" or other heavy bikes breeds can navigate. Excellent palatial Jai Vilas Palace and the Perennial Dhabhosa waterfalls are the main attractions of this small one horse town.On my return journey from Jawhar Hill station came across nomadic tribes on their way to another location, a rare sight even in remote villages of India.A adventurous motorcycling travel tour day to remember.
MOTORCYCLE TRAVELOGUE OF JAWHAR HILL STATION. .
I now describe the motorcycle travelogue in a pictorial essay for benifit of other riders or tourists.
Exit from DAHISAR and onto the main highway.
At 0700hrs riding along the Western Express highway passed the boundary of Mumbai crossing the landmark "Dahisar Checkpost Naka" in Dahisar (East) which marks the end of Mumbai on the Western Express highway.Advantage of 2 wheelers is that irrespective of the cost of the two wheeler be it owning a Rs 5 Lakh ++ bike or a Rs 5 lakh ++ racing cycle you are exempt of paying toll charges unlike 4 wheelers.Felt the winter morning cold riding early morning on NH8 highway and fortunately was wearing my winter jacket which gave warmth against the cold morning breeze rushing past the bike.My destination was Manor in Palghar district located 88 Kms from Mumbai .At 0740 hrs passed "Khaniwade Toll Plaza" after which the highway was as smooth as a "MOTO GP" race circuit and tested my bike at 100 + kms.On nearing Manor asked for directions to the Manor-Vikramgad-Jawhar road and confused i overshot my target by at least 5 kms realizing my error as i had ridden down this route before on a solo ride to Udvada- Silvassa . Finally stopped at a highway petrol pump and inquired with a traveller. The gentleman told me to ride back in the reverse direction and thanking him began my reverse ride stopping at landmark "Hotel Mountain" on Manor Highway where the owner assisted me on the right road. At 0830 after a refreshing cup of tea at "Hotel Mountain" rode a further distance along the highway and was relieved on spotting the road to the left of the main NH8 highway with a signpost indicating the route to Vikramgad and finally Jawhar. Ahoy !
Breakfast at "Hotel Mountain" near Manor.
The "Manor -Vikramgad-Jawhar" route is a single road . The approximately 22 Kms ride from Manor to Vikramgad was through a rough patch of road having a few potholes which tested my reflexes and presence of mind.Want to stay young in mind as well as experience dare devil adventure then invest in a bike and go on long rides.This advice coming from a survivor of a hat-trick of motorcyle hospitalizations and still riding a motorcycle as well as a cycle at the young age of 60 +. Definitely not insane. Ahoy ! There was greenery on both sides of the narrow road with a few fields being cultivated, a relief to strained eyes accustomed to concrete jungle Mumbai.Finally at 0910 hrs recharged my petrol tank at a petrol pump just on the outskirts of Vikramgad Town. Seems "Coronavirus(Covid-19)" was non existant in these villages as i didn't come across villagers wearing masks akin to concrete jungle Mumbai.Countryside weather and lifestyle is the best form of a healthy living and natural immunity against "COVID-19".
Jawar hill station discovered in 1343 was a part of the Bombay presidency during the British Colonial rule and given a 9 gun salute status by the British rulers.The Munke dynasty ruled over Jawhar with the last king being Shrimant Yashwantrao Martandrao Mukne.It is situated at a altitude of 447 meters (1466 ft) and hence the final 27 kms road after Vikramgad Town was a gradual incline and horrible in some stages akin to dirt bike riding. Beware of cattle and dogs while driving and i almost ran over a Cockfowl that crossed my path .Why did the chicken run across the road ?The final route towards Jawahar was excellent akin to a Moto Gp track which surprized me and a rider should be careful of sharp curves on the inclines.Finally at 1000 hrs reached the entrance barricade of the police check post of Jawhar city.At the checkpost inquired with the local policeman about the local tourist spots within the vicinity and as the nearest was Jaivilas Palace decided to visit the same.
Front view of Jai Vilas Palace facing the valley 447 meters(1466 ft) below.
The main narrow dusty untarred village pathway road leading to the Jaivilas Palace bifurcating from the main road of the Police check Naka near a landmark local dhabba was closed and hence tested my skills at "Dirt Bike " riding.Took a narrow dirt road that even a cyclist would think twice before testing let alone a 190 Kg "Royal Enfield" bike.With great caution and gamblers instinct maneuvered my way through the narrow forest pathway which led into a open maidan with scattered trees and scrubland. The palace is easily visible from the scrubland and finally with great riding suspense reached the edge of the palace estate.Below is the photo that gives a glimpse of the pathway drive to Jaivilas Palace.
Absolutely bad road leading to Jaivilas Palace..A motorcyclists nightmare to avoid slipping on the loose gravel.
Two young men on a motorcycle arrived before me on the Palace grounds and we three were the only tourists besides a few workers employed for renovation of this magnificent Palace.A small village style care-takers bungalow that also operates as a canteen is situated at the edge of the entrance to the palace courtyard.The palace was closed to tourists and hence we three toured the estate of this beautiful edifice that sits at the peak of Jawhar hill station.
The neoclassical style Jaivilas Palace erected in Syenite stone was built in 1940 by Raja Yashwant Rao Mukne. This palace is also known as Raj Bari is a master piece of architecture with blend of Western and Indian styles of architecture in majestic pink stones. The interiors of this palace which i could not visit display the rich culture and lifestyle of tribal kings of Mukne family. The palace is surrounded by a garden with a dense forest like foliage consisting mostly of Cashew trees.The Syenite stone to build this majestic palace was brought from a quarry at Sakhara, which is 12 km from its location. It is said that when the work of the palace was completed, the quarry from, which the stones were extracted was broken down and covered and hence the exact location of the quarry is lost in time. The Geological Department, of Government of India has now taken up a task to locate the lost quarry. Due to its architecture style location and haunting beauty this palace has featured in several films in Marathi and Hindi.
In front of Jaivilas Palace that faces the valley deep below and offers a excellent bird's eye view .
From Jaivilas Palace it was a treacherous motorcycle ride on gravel forest road and lost my direction riding along the narrow visible forest trail luckily spotting a group of young boy's playing near the actual main gate pathway where my vehicle came to a dead end that was locked for vehicle transport. Requested a young boy to guide me and riding piggy back on my motorcycle he guided me through the thorn bush onto the main Jawhar road.Marathi is the main spoken language among the villagers and thanking the young kid next asked directions to Hanuman point.It was a short motorcycle ride along the main road of the east side of the city with a left curve on the road leading to Hanuman hill.A small temple called Katya Maruti Mandir stands prominently on Hanuman hill overlooking the valley below and the surrounding area has a large number of Cactus trees.A viewer gets a beautiful view of Jaivilas Palace situated on the adjacent plateau.
"Katya Maruti Mandir" on Hanuman hill.
View of "Jaivilas Palace" as seen from "Hanuman hill". Notice the pristine beauty of the Sahyadri(Western Ghats) mountain range which is a green carpet during the monsoon season.
From "Hanuman Hill" my next destination was "Dabhosa Waterfalls" which is situated 14 kms from Jawhar main market on the main "Jawhar-Silvassa" highway.It was a long ride on a well paved road through beautiful countryside cultivated as well as dry fields.Its a birdwatcher's paradise during monsoons and the migratory season of birds and spotted a few aquatic birds along the patches of small pond formations amid the fields.Passed alongside a beautiful large lake seen in the distance and the final road journey was amidst wetlands with sign board postings of various different bird species along the road. On arrival at Dabhosa waterfall viewpoint realized again that i was the lone tourist and the feeling of isolation amidst nature was spell binding.Was i living in the second most populated Country on Planet Earth ? From the viewpoint the view of the gushing waterfalls was beautiful although a long distance away amidst a canopy of forest cover. The perennial Dabhosa Waterfalls is formed over Lendi River and cascades down from a height of about 300 feet and most beautiful in the rainy season with full flow and greenery around. It is a superb adventure spot with Kayaking, Valley Crossing, Zip Line, Rappelling and laddering, Trekking and fishing being the adventure sports offered by a few resorts in the vicinity.On this day seemed i was the lone tourist and the empty kayaks could be seen being tethered at a corner of the natural swimming pool type lake into which the water flowed.There are steps to go down the hill from the viewpoint and swimming in this natural swimming pool is a free attraction of this waterfall nicknamed the "Niagara Falls of Maharashtra".
A view of Dabhosa Waterfall.
Seafarer/Blogger/Traveller Rudolph.A.Furtado at "Dabhosa Waterfalls Viewpoint" with the waterfalls seen in the distance below." The Niagara Falls of Maharashtra" during peak monsoon season.
On my return ride towards Jawhar Hill station passed through the tribal village and got a external glimpse of the village lifestyle.Jawhar is famous for its "WARLI TRIBAL PAINTINGS" and is home to several indigenous tribes like the Warli, Kolcha, Kukana, Thakur, Mahadev, Koli and Katkaris. In fact the "MUKNE FAMILY" that ruled over Jawhar Hill station belonged to the Koli tribe."WARLI ART" is now famous across the Globe let alone India but its origins stem from the surroundings of Jawhar hill station.Warli is the vivid expression of daily and social events of the Warli tribe used by them to embellish the walls of village houses.Now it is more commercialized.
Finally at 1200 hrs reached Jawhar Hill station town centre which has a landmark clock tower but non functional as a clock time indicator.This clock tower is called "VIJAYSTAMBH" and this locality situated on the edge of the city on top of the hill is the best locality for tourists.Below is a photo of the landmark "CLOCK TOWER".
Landmark "Vijaystambh(Clocktower)
I had last eaten breakfast at 0530 hrs at home in Mumbai and my stomach was rumbling for lunch.Spotted "Hotel MH-10" situated on the road opposite the landmark "Vijaystambh(Clocktower)" and on entering the well maintained hotel realized i was the only customer.Was given V.I.P treatment being the only customer and realize the devastation that "Covid-19" has caused to the economy beginning from Megapolis city's to Hill station tourist resorts.
Lunch at "Hotel MH-10"
Lunch was a excellent freshly served "Special Vegetarian Thali" washed down with a Pepsi bottle and not beer bottle while costing only Rs 200.One of the best vegetarian thali's i had eaten in ages considering the modest cost of the meal.If served such meals daily this hard core non-vegetarian carnivore could adapt and transform into a hardcore vegetarian herbivore . Ahoy !
Excellent and moderately priced "Vegetarian Thali".
I was surprised that "Reliance JIO" internet network was non-operable in Jawhar city. Very strange and hope Reliance officials install a "JIO NETWORK" in Jawhar city , definitely a tourist destination.After the sumptuous "VEGETARIAN THALI" meal asked directions with the hotel manager to my final destination "Sunset Point"and from there the highway back to Mumbai.It was a short ride along the narrow road towards "Sunset Point" situated on the west side of the tiny city and on the way came across young village kid's attempting to fly kites. Nostalgia of my own childhood era flooded my memory bank .Came across a huge garbage dumping ground that was smoking fumes of burnt garbage, a ghastly sight in the pristine hill region of the Sahyadri mountains.Below is a photo of the massive "GARBAGE DUMP" of Jawhar Hill Station City.
"Garbage Dump" near "Sunset Point".
I was now riding on the west side of Jawhar city and at 1300 hrs shortly after passing the landmark "Garbage Dump" reached the entrance gate to "SUNSET POINT".Had to park my motorcycle outside the gate as the broad "RE Bike" could not squeeze in through the wide gaps between the pillored iron gates.Slimmer, lighter vehicles could pass through the gate gaps and it was a simple case of "Horses for Courses"usage where a cyclist or my previous "Bajaj wind-125cc" bike could have squeezed through the gate gaps. Ahoy!Walked through the gate onto the hill Top plateau of "SUNSET POINT" which is also a lovers rendezvous with observation stands erected around the hill plateau.The shape of the valley around Sunset point is like Bow hence earlier it was known as Dhanukamal. During sunset, one can see the mountain of Mahalaxmi near Dahanu, which is nearly 60 km from Jawhar but at 1315 hrs i was a long way from observing the sun set at sunset point of Jawhar.Having travelled through 81 Country's across the Globe and almost entire India it was "MOTORCYCLING CRUISING" and the "JAIVILAS PALACE" that made me undertake this solo travel ride to Jawhar.Royalty history fascinates me as does stretching my adventure skills and luck across different country's and my own India.
SUNSET POINT
View from "SUNSET POINT"
Finally at approximately 1320 hrs i bid adieu to Jawhar Hill station city beginning my downhill ride from "Sunset Point" towards Vikramgad-Manor road. As mentioned motorists should drive slowly as occasionally cattle or dog's stray onto the road.Sadly did spot a dead dog at the side of the road, definitely a hit and run victim. Came across a villager herding her cows along the road.
Beware of cattle while driving.
Riding along the highway at approximately 1415 hrs came across a nomadic tribal family migrating to some other locale along with their pony's, cattle, guard dogs and children.A lady matriarch was the leader of this caravan that walked in a single file along the road. Straight out of a "NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC" postcard documentary and i requested the lady for a photo shoot to which she obliged.one of the two dog's resembled a "Irish Wolfhound" while the other a giant country dog.
Nomadic Tribal family.on the move.
The two guard dogs tied to the pony's and walking alongside the caravan were absolutely fierce ,barking at my presence with the lady warning me not to get too close to the dogs.These two dog's could give pedigreed "German Shepherds", "Dobermann's" or "Rottweilers" a run for their pedigree value in terms of ferocity.The photo below is of young lambs saddled onto the pony with the guard dog walking alongside.The discipline and obedience of human's and the companion animals of this nomadic village tribe was a lesson in discipline management.
I was lucky to witness and photograph a authentic Maharashtrian Nomadic tribe on the move to some other village or locale.My adventure travel of Mahableshwar/Panchgani in 2016 was the first instance that i came across these nomadic tribals and here in Jawhar was the second time and wonder how long these tribes would continue this way of nomadic living akin to my own nomadic travels.Travel educates. It was finally a nice long return ride across the same now familiar single road back to Manor junction.
Finally at 1430 hrs reached the main NH8 Mumbai-Ahmedabad highway.
Familiar "Name posts" on ride back to Mumbai.
From the main highway it was a excellent ride at times touching 100 Kms/Hr + and later got into a half hour traffic jam at the entrance to Vasai creek bridge. Got into conversation with a Medical student of "Grant Medical College(J.J.Hospital)" who co-incidentally was next to me with his monster "Kawasaki 1000 cc" motorcycle.The bike cost only Rs 15 lakhs and he also had a "Triumph Tiger Bike" as well as a "Harley Davidson bike " back home in Vasai.He and his twin brother used the bikes and he commuted daily between Vasai and J.J. hospital in Mumbai on his collection of bikes.I remember watching a crime programme on T.V where the narrator talked about "TWO INDIA"s" that we Indians live in which is very true as far as wealth disparity and living conditions are concerned.I myself belong to the elite class of educated and comfortable "First World Indians" living in India and while collecting expensive bikes is not my passion its travel that is my expensive indulgence.Travel educates. Ahoy !.The traffic finally cleared and approaching "Dahisar Check Naka" was a horror traffic story finally reaching home at 1645 hrs.Jawhar Hill Station was finally no more a history book mystery.
ROYAL ENFIELD RIDERS AT THE "MAHADARWAJA" OF SHIVNERI FORT IN JUNNAR .
"Royal Enfield" ride to Junnar
On Monday(10/2/2020) had ridden to "Royal Enfield Service centre (Worli)" to rectify my bike's year old "Kick-Start" defect.Since the time i purchased my "Standard Bullet 350" it has had a constant manufacturing defect of not kick-starting after stopping and restarting over a long distance ride . At the Service center met Mr Sunil.Pawar who was conducting the "Royal Enfield Shivneri Fort/Junnar-Worli" ride on Saturday(15/2/2020) and decided to experience "Group Riding" for the first time in my riding hobby.Till date was a loner SOLO rider akin to my "SOLO GLOBE TRAVELS" and it was time to experience the format and brotherhood of "Motorcycle Group Riding" that i had read and seen in familiar "Harley Davidson" and "Royal Enfield" media.My School classmate and Mariner friend Mr Biju.J.Karian who owns a stable of Motorcycles at home in Bangalore which includes Harley Davidson is a regular group cruiser rider during office vacations from the Shipping Industry. He has even motorcycled to the annual "Sturgis Motorcycle Rally" in U.S.A with his group of "Harley Davidson " riders. Didn't have to look any further for group motorcycle cruising inspiration than childhood buddy Mr Biju.Karian to whom i also owe my entry into the "Marine Engineering profession" as a "Marine Apprentice( No 12049) " way back in 1978 at Mazagaon Dock Ltd in Mumbai.Paid the Group riding charges of Rs 2400 to Mr Sunil.Pawar and rode back home on a high note of finally experiencing my first "Motorcycle Group Ride" at the young age of 59 years.Mick.Jagger are you reading my blog !
ROYAL ENFIELD "Worli Showroom Mumbai to Junnar " riders on the road.We were a total of 12 riders on "ROYAL ENFIELD" motorcycles .All were dressed in full "MOTORCYCLE RIDING GEAR" akin to "MOTO GP RIDERS" with your's truly being the odd rider in the pack with just a helmet as security. Our Group leader Mr Sunil.Pawar had a camera fitted to his helmet for videographying parts of our cruising.Mr Abdul.Aziz also used a similar camera while riding. These waterproof camera's are also used for underwater photography as i had done during my Maldives underwater explorations.
Royal Enfield rider Mr Sunil.Pawar briefing us riders.
Saturday( 15/2/2020) Departure Royal Enfield Showroom Worli and arrival Junnar :- Reported early at 0600 hrs at the Worli Showroom meeting co-riders Mr Abhishek.Jathar,Mr Bhanudas.Jadhav,Mr Avinash.Sawant ,Mr Dipesh.Mody and Mr Sunil.Pawar, the leader of the group ride.It's a small world and total Motorcycle riders became acquaintances with Mr Abhishek.Jathar being the youngest rider among us and me the "Daddy Cool(Over Age !)" as usual. In the course of conversation Mr Avinash.Sawant living in Lalbaug knew the family of my late Marine Engineering colleague Mr Anil.Sawant who died under tragic circumstances over a decade ago which shocked my senses.Some people put a deep dent in your psyche and the death of Mr Anil.Sawant was one such event. Over the decades as i myself defy "Father Time" living a dangerous lifestyle and having lost numerous relatives,acquaintances and friends realize destiny plays a important role in every individual's life and lifestyle.
With Avinash.Sawant.
Finally after a brief description of the format of "Group convoy riding" by Leader Mr Sunil.Pawar we got onto our bikes and at approximately 0730 hrs began our marathon ride to Junnar. The total road distance from Mumbai to Junnar is approximately 163 Kms depending on the route taken as well as road and traffic conditions.At times detours have to be taken to avoid bad roads. The laid out route as per plans was as follows :- Panvel-Karjat--Neral-Mhasa- Vaishakhare-Malshej Ghat and finally destination Junnar.
NOTE :- The 2 ' RIDING VIDEO's" have been shot by co-rider Mr Abdul.Aziz, the camera fitted to his riding gear helmet. At Panvel we stopped at a roadside restaurant for snacks where the next batch of riders Mr Manish.Sharma,Mr Abdul.Aziz, Mr Sachin.Kelshikar and Mr Sameer.Nilatkar joined us for the "Royal Enfield Motorcycle Odyssey" to Junnar. We proceeded on the usual route and on passing along Karjat reminisced my previous ride through this route on a visit to the "Probable Paradise Shelter" run and managed by animal philanthropist Ms Roxanne. Davur. Further down the Karjat-Murbad Highway we came at the main route diversion where we stopped for tea at a local highway Dhabba. There were 3 routes from this spot with one road leading to Neral, the other to Poshir and the last to Murbad. In the modern age of mobile telecommunication and Internet our team leader decided to take the Murbad road and here is a pictorial essay of the ride until arrival in Junnar..
Ready-Set -Go :- Departure from "Royal Enfield Worli Showroom" at approximately 0730 hrs.Among the entire group of riders my kick-start "Royal Enfield Bullet 350" was the lowest base bike of the "Royal Enfield Stable" as also the oldest original "BULLET" model in continuous manufacture by "ROYAL ENFIELD" .In 1955 after bankruptcy of its parent company "Royal Enfield, England " the licensee rights of "Royal Enfield " was taken over by" Madras Motors" of India later producing "Royal Enfield " motorcycles for the Indian armed forces which brought it into the limelight. In 1994 "Madras Motors" was merged with "Eicher Motors Ltd" which also manufactures tractors and has a collaboration with Volvo of Sweden."Royal Enfield(Worli)" is the first showroom of the company in plush SoBo(South Mumbai). Unashamedly in the department of safety i was the most poorly attired "Royal Enfield" rider in the entire group.As a member of "BRAGGERS RIGHTS CLUB" had done 2000 Kms of solo riding in 11 days on this very same bike without any "SAFETY GEAR" barring the mandatory helmet. Hence the "Miser" in me decided not to invest in "Professional Motorcycle Sportswear" since i would rarely use the same and as they say "OVERCONFIDENCE" is the recipe to disaster.All the riders wore knee caps, shoulder pads ,padded jackets and bike boots along with the mandatory helmets.As for me it was only the "HELMET" and otherwise casual jeans and a thin leather jacket. NOTE :- PLEASE ALWAYS RIDE IN FULL MOTORCYCLE SAFETY GEAR IF VENTURING ON LONG CROSS COUNTRY RIDES. DON'T BE PENNY WISE AND POUND FOOLISH LIKE ME AS HINDSIGHT OF THIS ENTIRE RIDE WOULD REVEAL .NEVER KNOW WHEN YOU MIGHT MEET WITH A BAD FALL OR A NEAR FATAL ACCIDENT. AKIN TO A MANDATORY SAFETY HELMET ,KNEE CAPS,SHOULDER/ELBOW GUARDS AND BACK PROTECTION MIGHT SAVE YOUR LIFE IN CASE OF A ACCIDENT.DRESS UP LIKE MY MOTOGP HERO VALENTINO ROSSI( THE DR ? ) NOT AS A FASHION STATEMENT TO IMPRESS THE OPPOSITE SEX BUT FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY TO KEEP YOURSELF ALIVE . ALWAYS REMEMBER, YOU ONLY LIVE ONCE AND NOT TWICE !
Arrival at "Shree Sai Snacks" restaurant in Panvel where the other riders joined us thus completing the total group contingent ride to Junnar.
At 1300 hrs we reached "MALSHEJ GHAT" situated at a altitude of 700 meters (2,300 ft) where we had a brief rest stop. The ride on the Malshej Ghat roads was akin to riding on a "Formula 1 " race track and i did clock 90 Kms ++ .At the viewpoint on the Ghats which should be visited during the Monsoon season when the entire Ghats hill sides are transformed into temporary waterfalls.A awesome sight. In Spring it is totally dry as can be seen in this photo.From Malshej Ghats the ride to Junnar City was another 40 Kms with very bad intermittent roads .Got stuck in a dirt gravel and fellow bikers hauled me out of the gravel by pulling the bike backwards onto firm ground. Realized i was bad at "DIRT TRACK" riding having observed the same at the "Royal Enfield Riders Mania" in Goa. On straight roads i could give Valentino Rossi a run for his million dollar mega-bucks status as a bike rider but definitely a bad rider on narrow curves and dirt roads. NOTE :- PLEASE KNOW YOUR POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE POINTS IN MOTORCYCLE CRUISING BEFORE VENTURING ON LONG RIDES. PREVENTION OF A ACCIDENT IS BETTER THAN THE CURE.
At approximately 1415 hrs we arrived into Junnar city situated at a elevation of 689 meters(2260 Ft) above sea level . SHIVNERI FORT can be seen in the background atop Shivneri hill behind the statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji Bhosle. Shivneri is the birthplace of Chhatrapati Shivaji.Bhosle.
We had checked into "Hotel Platinum"where we were put up in A/C rooms with 2 riders sharing a room. Mr Sameer.S.Nilatkar, a hotelier by profession and myself shared a room on the 2nd floor and after a brief rest got down to the restaurant dining saloon.The "Royal Enfield" motorcycle technician Mr Rajesh.Patel who was to be accompanying us during the entire ride in case of a "Motorcycle Breakdown" arrived at the hotel after our arrival. Lunch was chicken in different culinary style for Non-Veg riders with myself seeing a large "Chicken Kebbab Platter" dish for the first time in my life.The "Chakna" was "Szechuan Pappad" which was guzzled with beer and after our late lunch decided not to ride on our motorcycles to the base of "SHIVNERI FORT". Hence walking down the main road in search of taxi's or rickshaws hired this tempo which drove us at a snails pace and honestly i could have walked faster.The fun was in the travel and not the destination ! The entire road leading to the base of Shivneri hill was excellent in comparison to the surroundings of Junnar City which was definitely lacking many basic infrastructure facilities.Having travelled most corners of the Globe always wondered the reason for the Hill Forts of Maharashtra receiving few foreign tourists and the reasons could be basic infrastructure deficiencies. "Shivneri Fort" attracts mostly only Indian tourists .
A little rest at the "MAHADARWAJA(MAIN GATE) of Shivneri hill that leads to Shivneri fort."SHIVNERI FORT " is situated at a altitude of 1067 meters( 3500 ft) above sea level. There are a total of 7 such doors that guard entry to the Fort and a total of 400 steps on this long spiral staircase that finally leads to the Fort. . Notice the Iron spikes on the wooden door. We arrived late at the Fort stairway entrance and entry into the Fort was stopped after 1700 hrs as a leopard had been sighted in the precincts of the fort. Junnar is noted for the presence of wild leopards living in close proximity to human habitation in the sugarcane fields .The iconic radio collared leopard "Ajoba" which helped naturalist scientists track its 120 Kms journey during its brief "Radio Collared lifespan" was captured from a well in Junnar . Later a Marathi film was also produced on this leopard named "Ajoba(Grandfather)".We were just allowed to walk up to the first gate of the Fort
A view of the birthplace of Chhatrapati Shivaji in"SHIVNERI FORT" . The next day on Sunday(16/2/2020) Co-Rider Mr Avinash.Sawant and the rest of the group riders trekked to the top of the Fort and did some cleaning of the Fort premises.This is a picture taken by Mr Avinash.Sawant.A history of this Fort can be researched on the Internet or history books .A Non-Indian tourist visiting the State of Maharashtra would instantly realize that Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj is the most venerated historical leader in the State with important landmark Institutions and buildings named after him with the most prominent being the Iconic Chhatrapati Shivaji railway terminus and Chhatrapati Shivaji Airport in India's commercial capital Mumbai.
As mentioned the main motive of the "ROYAL ENFIELD SHIVNERI FORT-JUNNAR RIDE" was to ride to Junnar and trek up the 400 steps of Shivneri hill and visit "SHIVNERI FORT" . "SHIVNERI FORT" is the birthplace of the founder of the Maratha Dynasty of India Chhatrapati Shivaji Bhosle who is also acknowledged as one of the World's historic guerrilla warfare leader's. We were late on reaching Shivneri hill entrance gate and the additional menace of a leopards presence on the hill fort premises left us disappointed as the security had stopped the entrance of visitors into the Fort.For a "Been Here , done that and seen that" could say that at least i visited the foot-steps of Shivneri Fort.I have visited all the prominent Maratha Forts in the State of Maharashtra including Raigad, the Capital of Chhatrapati Shivaji's Maratha Empire ."Shivneri Fort" was the only missing link in completing my triology of seeing the most prominent Maratha Forts and ironically remains a "Missing Link" as i couldn't visit the Fort. 4 of us left for Mumbai early the next morning on Sunday(16/2/2020) while the rest of the 8 riders trekked to the Shivneri hill summit and visited the Fort doing some civic social work of cleaning the historic premises.
A Grand dinner at "Hotel Platinum" with beer , "Cheese Kebab's assorted platter" and "La Peta Chicken Kebab's". Although i must have been the most travelled rider in the group my knowledge of exotic food was minuscule, although a foodie and honestly this display of exotic food names baffled my vocabulary.During dinner we had a discussion of our personal motorcycling experiences with "Daddy Cool" having the unique distinction of surviving 2 motorcycle hospitalizations .The "Joker" of "CRUISER MOTORCYCLING". Ahoy ! The most competent and veteran riding member of this group was Mr Manish.Sharma who had narrowly missed putting his name into the "Limca Book of Records" for the longest motorcycle distance covered within a specified time-frame.He gave us a few tips on "SAFE RIDING".Mr Abdul Aziz was a veteran rider with long rides under his belt and a habitual week-end holiday rider .Mr Sachin. Kelshikar had some of the most expensive accessories fitted onto his Himalayan bike.Mr Dipesh.Mody although a first time group rider akin to me had a sophisticated helmet fitted with "Blue tooth" technology.I felt like a villager from Timbuktu in the midst of a High society reception among this elite group of "Royal Enfield" riders discussing motorcycles and motorcycle experiences. As for me realized that beside's travel it's " Group Bike Cruising" that also educates.
Early in the morning on Sunday(16-2-2020) Mr Abdul.Aziz, Mr Sameer.Nilatkar, Mr Dipesh.Mody and myself decided to ride back 163 Kms to Mumbai. A view of "Hotel Platinum" which also has a 100 seat theatre adjacent to the main hotel building screening Hindi and Marathi films with the Marathi film " Makeup" playing during our stay at the hotel.. There are only 2 theatres in Junnar city and "Platinum Theatre" was one among the two. At approximately 0730 hrs we began our marathon ride from "Hotel Platinum " in Junnar to Mumbai. Mr Abdul.Aziz was our group leader and guide.We took a different route passing alongside the beautiful fields of Sugarcane plantations also notorious for being the home of resident leopards that have put Junnar in the news in recent years.
After crossing the "MALSHEJ GHATS" at approximately 0900 hrs we stopped at Hotel Rakshavalli" for a breakfast of "Missal/Paav" and Bhajia's. Bizarrely it was a bad start to the day's riding as i fell with the bike while descending a Ghat section and the rest of the three riders stopped and put my bike upright with me receiving no injuries. PHOTO( L-R) :- Mr Sameer. Nilatkar, Self, Mr Dipesh.Mody(Standing) and Mr Abdul.Aziz our group leader and guide.
MONA LISA SMILE AFTER 163 KMS RIDE FROM JUNNAR ON ARRIVAL AT HOME IN VAIBHAV APARTMENTS AT OLD PRABHADEVI ROAD IN MUMBAI ? :- After breakfast we rode without any stoppage and did clock 100 Km/hr at a empty road stretch with Mr Abdul.Aziz being the main ride leader and guide.As mentioned this was a different route and for the first time in my life got to view Kalyan city in the district of Thane.Once upon a time Kalyan was a distant undeveloped city but in 2020 was amazed at the building construction and housing complexes in this city. From Kalyan via the bypass road entered Thane city which in parts seemed like plush locales of South Mumbai.I felt like Rip Van Winkle getting out of a slumber and suddenly realizing that the city in which he resided for decades has transformed itself overnight during his sleep ! From Thane it was a beautiful ride on the Eastern Express Highway and finally at approximately 1200 hrs at the end of the expressway got confused on the diversions of 2 flyovers heading towards Mumbai city taking the wrong flyover.On riding on the flyover and looking down suddenly realized my error and in that instant met with a death defying crash against the railing of the flyover.My bike had grazed the flyover railing and crashed throwing me over onto the road.Fell flat on my face with the helmet taking the brunt of the force but also felt a numbness in my left hand.A few men immediately came to me and helped me get off the ground. There was glass pieces around with the motorcycle headlight broken and side leg stand bent due to the impact of the crash. Seems neither Heaven or Hell wanted to accept me today and it was a miracle that i was conscious and standing upright after such a horrible accident.My bike was put upright and then the few men who helped me went their own way's as is life in hectic Mumbai. Realized i must have dislocated my left shoulder as i couldn't lift my left arm. It was blazing hot on the "Flyover Highway" with cars just whizzing past me and myself stranded on the highway thirsting for water akin to being in a Desert. Not a single vehicle stopped to help me and finally a taxi stopped and the driver helped me start the bike whose engine akin to me was "ALIVE" and not "DEAD". Realized the the "STANDARD BULLET " brand bike of "Royal Enfield" had survived competition and motorcycle brand longevity for the simple reason that it was built like a "Battle Tank", as indestructible as the "Unsinkable Molly Brown" of the Titanic in 1912.Ahoy ! Put the bike on its double-stand and the taxi driver kick-started my indestructible "Standard Bullet -350". Got onto the bike after paying the taxi driver Rs 600 for his invaluable service and rode back home at a slow speed in 2nd gear. Ahoy ! Finally reached my building where i took this candid photograph .SMILING like MONA LISA after HEAVEN or HELL rejected my presence saying i am better off living on Planet Earth until further notice.As for me this was definitely my first and last long distance motorcycle cruising . From today onwards it would only be riding within Mumbai city since as a "PROFESSIONAL GAMBLER/INVESTOR" realize that the odds are stacked heavily against me in long distance motorcycle cruising. Ahoy !
Having purchased the "Bullet 350" for the sole purpose of long distance cruise rides on land it would be sacrilegious to not attend the annual "ROYAL ENFIELD RIDER MANIA" hosted by the World's oldest motorcycle brand company.This year the 3 day motorcycle festival was being held from Friday(22/11/2019) to Sunday(24/11/2019) at the " Hill Top ,Vagator " in Goa and hence paid Rs 2500 and registered myself for the event.As usual booked the cheapest hostel room at "Seinfelds Hostel" in Anjuna situated in close proximity to Vagator Hill Top,Goa.Get set,ready, Go !
"La Maroma" villa residency opposite "Seinfelds hostel".
On Wednesday(20/11/2019) left my residence in Prabhadevi in Mumbai at 0430 hrs and to my amazement bettered my own previous riding record by reaching Goa at 1530 hrs in a span of 11 hrs.Parts of the highway road from Mumbai to Goa were literally moon crater pot holes requiring precise road navigation to avoid serious hospitalization or worse, even death .The extended monsoon rains had created havoc on the now familiar highway and barring the main Satara- Kolhapur NH4 highway most of the highway's had intermediate stretches of potholes with the worst stretch being in Goa .Fortunately the weather was cloudy almost throughout my entire ride to Goa and hence the ride not thirst quenching and dehydrating. No intermediate highway stops for either sugarcane juice or water. .Hence my timing of 11 hrs from Mumbai to Goa through the worst phase of the Mumbai-Goa highway upkeep repairs was a surprise.
The "ODDOMETER" never lies ? 602 Kms .
I rode non-stop with only two short stops for refilling petrol and urinating.Riding through the treacherous Amboli ghats spotted a large snake slithering into the forest canopy and would like to believe i had seen a cobra and not the common Rat snake. A real massive snake whose tail i managed to see as it quickly vanished into the highway forest. Thankful it didn't become a road casualty.Finally at 1530 hrs entered Goa and bizarrely experienced a sudden short heavy downpour of November rain. Didn't get completely drenched as the heavy downpour suddenly stopped and riding further stopped at Siolim junction inquiring directions to Anjuna. A local gentleman guided me and it was a long ride past the beautiful Old World Goan bungalow houses of Siolim towards Anjuna.
"FISH SELLERS" : Don't leave Goa without tasting Fish.
Distances in Goa are long and again rechecked my location. Finally nearing Anjuna stopped at a store for rest and a short snack having totally skipped lunch or tea during my marathon non-stop ride.Rang up "Seinfeld Hostel" and Mr Mangesh.Kathar the manager told me to head to "Anjuna Bharath Petrol Pump" in Anjuna. On reaching Anjuna Bharath Petrol pump a employee of the hotel came over on a scooter and guided me to the hostel situated in a by-lane of bungalow style houses. Typical Goa village scenario.Having lost counts of the number of hostels and hotels stayed during my travels this was my first stay in a hostel in India having previously always resided in cheap lodges ,home stay's or hotels when on local tours around India ."Seinfelds Hostel" is a former ancestral Goan farmhouse converted into a hostel and on entering the hostel premises felt i was in my parents ancestral villages of Mangalore. Adjacent to "Seinfelds hostel" is another similar hostel named "Pitchers bar and Cafe" that played non-stop music and was under renovation .
"DIYA Fast Food" near Anjuna Petrol Pump junction.
Typical rustic locale and atmosphere with a plush film star styled Villa enclave named " Vianaar La Maroma" situated facing the hostel on the opposite pathway road .Each villa within this small housing complex of Villa's was having a 3 bedrooms/ swimming pool and had a rental of only Rs 35,000/Day ! Did someone whisper that India is a "Developing Country" or a "Poor Country" ? Shah Rukh Khan would feel at home in a "La Maroma" villa away from his landmark bungalow "Mannat" in Mumbai while "Film shooting" in Goa.Having been intermittently visiting Goa since my shipping employment in 1983 have seen the topographical changes and only hope that with passing years the entire landscape of Goa is not transformed into modern city styled apartments and bungalows.
Ahoy ! "Goan Pao/Bangda fry/prawns" at "Seinfelds"
Change is inevitable but preservation of parts of history and culture of a locale or city is also important .As usual the nomad quickly adjusted to the single bunk bed in a tiny 4 bunk room.All the four bunk beds were occupied and my room partners were in their twenties ,a Romanian, a Chinese and a local Indian.My motorcycle odometer told me that i had travelled a total of 602 Kms from Mumbai to Seinfelds hostel in Anjuna in Goa . We humans never know what we can achieve until we accomplish the same.Ahoy ! After a refreshing shower headed into the main town square and purchased a parcel of authentic Goan "Bangda Fry/Prawns" with Pao(Special Goan Bread) from the mobile van "Diya Fast Food"situated at the Anjuna petrol pump junction corner .As a thirst quencher purchased a Kingfisher beer from the plush wine shop and walked the short distance to "Seinfeld Hostel".Excellent dinner in rustic "Seinfeld hostel" open air roofed compound,typical Old Goa village farmhouse.Weather in Goa was excellent, cool but not cold or humid at night..
"ROYAL ENFIELD RIDER MANIA -2019" :- Inquisitive cat of "Orange Cafe" inspecting a motorcycle .Entire Anjuna/Vagator locality had become a cat-walk of different brands of motorcycles and scooters during the "Royal Enfield Rider Mania" week-end. "Orange Cafe" was a popular early morning tea/breakfast Adda for tourists and locals as it was the earliest to open at 0700 hrs .
" Vianaar La Maroma" :- Ultra Luxury villa's
Thursday(21/11/2019) :- As usual was awake the earliest and got busy on the laptop.Later at around 0730 hrs strolled to the Anjuna petrol pump junction which is the main "Town Square" of this plush village commune.The majestic "Royal Pearl Resort" is a landmark in the vicinity, a beautiful Old world Mansion style building with a minimum rental of Rs 4500/Room/day and varying according to the holiday season in Goa.During Christmas/New Year year end the prices of accommodation as well as air travel to Goa shoot up to unbelievable barometric heights. "Amani Hotel" was another plush hotel in the same locality but a damp ordinary building with a tiny swimming pool.Breakfast was "Puri bhajee/Goan Bun" along with three tiny glasses of tea at "Orange Cafe", a popular dhabba with tourists and locals.
"Orange Cafe" :- Breakfast Adda during my stay
At home in Mumbai the tea i drink would cost a fortune if evaluated in terms of these tiny tea glasses.Travel educates, locally or Internationally. After breakfast surveyed the locality and was surprised to know that i was residing in one of the plushest localities of Goa. Susagade,Le Pearl and the elegantly palatial Spanish designed Hacienda de Goa were a few of the prominent hotels within walking distance from "Seinfeld hostel". Came across a palatial Portuguese era Bungalow of the 17th century era reminding me of maternal Uncle Wilfred and Aunt Patsy's palatial inherited Portuguese era bungalow estate in Candolim. The Old World Portuguese era Mansions of Goa is something to talk about and admire as a status symbol akin to owning a "Rolls Royce" or a "----" motorcycle .
At Ex- Mariner Melroy.Pinto's "Splashdown Waterpark".
As a adult first visited Goa in 1983 when our ship "M.V.Karnataka" had docked in a era when the "Internet" and "Mobile Phones" was a "Science fiction " fantasy but now in 2019 the "Internet" and "Mobile phones" were a part of normal daily living which has also transformed my life and lifestyle.Ex-Mazgaon dock marine engineer colleague Mr Melroy.Pinto contacted me through "WhatsApp" inviting me to visit his resort "Splashdown Waterpark" situated in close proximity to "Seinfelds Hostel".Since i had prior engagements of attending the "Royal Enfield Rider Mania" couldn't make it on his watch and hence decided to ride over and have a look at his waterpark. Hostel manager Mr Mangesh gave me directions and it was a short ride through the village road towards main Calangute-Anjuna road.On the way came across "Atlantis Water Sports" office situated in Simplex chamber at Umta Waddo and stopped by and inquired about deep sea diving and other water sports conducted by them in Goa.Reasonably priced for novices.
"Home Spice" :- Authentic Hindu Goan culinary restaurant.
A short ride away from "Atlantis Water Sports" reached my destination "Splashdown Waterpark" which was yet to open at 1000 hrs."Splashdown Waterpark" is a partnership business between Mr Melroy.Pinto and Mr Levansio.D'souza , both former "Marine Engineers" from "M.D.L.Marine apprenticeship " course .Inquired with the staff and entered the large water-park reminding me a bit of "Esselworld" water-park in Mumbai. A few of my Marine Engineering colleagues have become successful entrepreneurs within the shipping Industry itself after quitting sailing and looking at "Splashdown Waterpark" should say that Mr Melroy.Pinto and Mr Levansio,D'souza are the rare entrepreneur's who ventured into a non-shipping vocation and are asuccess.As for me a 2 Kms ++ daily swimmer back home at the "M.G.M.O" pool in Mumbai these water-parks are child's play and definitely excellent for a day's picnic for families and children .From the water-park made my way back to the hostel.
Bikers gradually arriving at "Seinfelds Hostel"
Relaxed in the spacious open air lobby of the hostel making new acquaintances and after a drink of beer at the hostel rode the short distance to "Home Spice", a family run restaurant.Lunch was excellent "Pomfret thali" costing Rs 120 and was akin to eating home food cooked in the culinary style of Hindu Goan families.The beauty of India which also confuses Non-Indian foreigners is its diversity in culture, religion as well as culinary preparations within a single country.After lunch rode to "Hill Top Goa" and was amazed at the number of hostels and guest houses lining either side of the road..Seems every Goan family in the vicinity was in the part-time business of converting a part of their residence into a home-stay or leasing out the same to lodging entrepreneurs akin to "Seinfelds hostel".During the slack tourist season most of these lodgings would be cheaper and also almost empty as tourism business all over the Globe is a seasonal business.Finally on reaching Hill top was in awe at the size of the plateau ground that was hosting the "Royal Enfield Rider Mania" festival. Identical to the beautiful Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai although slightly smaller .Registered myself at the registration booth and collected my complimentary T-shirt, water-bottle and stickers for the 3 day festival.Returned back to the hostel and got familiar with my young room mates .
Betting Addiction : "Bets" on which bull would flee first ?
There was no electricity power in the evening and one of the major problems of Goa is "Load Shedding" in various parts of the Union territory. Plush hotels, residences including the Rs 35,000/Day "La Maroma " villa's and resorts have generator sets to cope up with these occasional uncomfortable living conditions. In the evening a young Israeli arrived at the hostel with his "Royal Enfield" which he had purchased second hand and was now touring India with this bike.Travel educates.So our tiny 4-bunk room was truly a International gathering with a Romanian, a Chinese and now a Israeli residing in the accommodation.Was experiencing this for the first time in India .On all my travels across Globe the one thing i noticed was that foreigners were very familiar with the states of Kashmir, Goa,Kerala ,Himachal Pradesh and Rajasthan but not much with other Indian States or city's and here in Goa realized the reasons. Dinner was dried cashew nuts/beer/ batata wada with a beer. The Batata wada's costing Rs 20 each at Anjuna petrol pump junction was a pale shadow of the Batata wada's sold on the streets of Mumbai.Bizarre but true is the fact that certain eatable specialties are a trade mark of a particular community or region in India.Uniqueness of the culinary diversity of India.
ROYAL ENFIELD RIDER MANIA -2019 at Hill Top Goa. (First Day).Main registration counter for events and entry.
Finally at the venue after a 602 Kms ride from Mumbai.
Friday(22/11/2019):- Sleepless nights with just three hours of sleep is a way of life and living during travels and it was the same at "Seinfelds hostel" in Goa.Early in the morning got busy on my laptop and later at approximately 0745 hrs walked the short distance to "Orange Cafe" for breakfast of omelette/bread/Goa bun with tea.The Goa buns reminded me of the similar preparation in our ancestral villages of Mangalore. After breakfast walked the short distance to the hostel with accommodation being house-full due to the "Royal Enfield Rider Mania" carnival.At approximately 1100 hrs rode to "Hill Top Goa" and the sight that greeted my eyes was akin to seeing a mirage in a desert.
"Motorcycle Groups" from various parts of India arriving at the venue and displaying their talent and enthusiasm.Standing on a "Himalayan Royal Enfield" for a group selfie.
India is a country of diverse cultures , religions and regions .A "Malyali Motorcycle Group" from Bangalore.Films,Cricket and motorcycles bring the entire country as one and i will never ever forget this sight of a sea of only "ROYAL ENFIELD" motorcycles arriving in a single file procession into the parking lots.The largest gathering of motorcycles at a motorcycle festival in India.
One side of the entire barren Hill Top ground which was reserved as a parking lot was gradually getting filled with "Royal Enfield " motorcycles as each motorcycle group made its grand entry into the venue.The had last time i had seen such a large accumulation of a array of different motorcycles at one location was at the 2007 "Malaysian Moto GP" at Sepang in Kuala Lumpur .
Films,Cricket and motorcycles bring the entire country together .A "Motorcycle Group" in turbans of the national flag of India.
Yours truly posing for a "Been There, Seen That and Done that" photo in front of the logo of the "Royal Enfield Rider Mania -2019" whose message is to make our World a better living place through environment conservation and reduction in plastic use which is one of the main pollutants of the Natural World.Every registered rider to this 3-day event was given a free T-shirt which i am wearing as well as a permanent usable water bottle to discourage the usage of plastic bottles.
"National Geographic" press team bikes at Rider Mania.
Here at Hill Top Goa it was only "Royal Enfield" motorcycles and hence was surprised at the population of the fanatic enthusiasts of the "Royal Enfield" brand of motorcycles. In recent years many new iconic International motorcycle brands including the legendary "Harley Davidson" have entered the country and hence sales competition is lethal."ROYAL ENFIELD" has held its reputation and place in the ever evolving World of motorcycles and it's "BULLET" brand is a icon in its own right in India akin to the "Harley Davidson" in U.S.A . Another unique fact of "ROYAL ENFIELD" brand of motorcycles is that they never advertise their products in the film, television and even print media and yet a house-hold brand name in India and known across the globe.Today at Hill Top Goa i was experiencing first hand the cult status of the "Royal Enfield" motorcycle brand in India as well as overseas.
"Royal Enfield " Custom bikes on exhibition
Various motorcycle groups from different parts of the country arrived at the ground with their riders wearing their respective motorcycle club shirt as also sounding their arrival into the parking lot with blaring signature "RE Thumping Sounds" and the beating or blaring of "Sirens or drums" . Women's participation was also amazing as they arrived along with their male counterparts riding their bikes or even sitting on pillion and beating the drum for their club. They later posed for photographs to the delight of the spectators.There were two different grounds at Hill Top Goa for staging the events as well as two different venues for holding the evening "Live music" entertainment.Entered the main Hill Top Goa venue situated next to the parking lot where the custom built "Royal Enfield" bikes were on display as also shops displaying various motorcycle accessories and gadgets .
Exhibit :"BLACK CAT SUPERSTITION"
A houseful packed crowd and the beer although highly priced was cheap in comparison to Mumbai nightclubs.What fascinated me was a large number of effigies of black cats placed around a small portion of the festival lawn with a caption to educate people on the eradication of superstition of black cats causing "Bad Luck".Visitors whether superstitious or not had to walk among these "Black Cat" effigies. Isn't the oldest motorcycle brand in the World "Bullet Standard 350" pure black in colour ? In the World a "BLACK CAT" is considered lucky in some Country's and cultures and unlucky in others.As for me,Black or White it's all about simply being a cat ! The "BULLET 350" has outlived competition from multicolored motorcycles although with the times it is available in other colours. The atmosphere was typical carnival style bringing back memories of the "Kingfisher Indian Derby " week-end in the "Member's Enclosure" at Mahalaxmi racecourse in Mumbai.
Women's "Obstacle Competition".Riding over a slide.
Difference was that at Hill Top the mechanical "Royal Enfield" motorcycles replaced the race horses and definitely felt at home akin to Indian Derby Day among the beautiful machines and a cosmopolitan crowd of motorcycle enthusiasts and professional riders. Ahoy ! The highly inflated food prices as also the fact that Indian non-vegetarian fast food is not my favourite as its a common daily cuisine back home in Mumbai made me ride to newly discovered home food restaurant "Home Spice" . Lunch was "Prawns Thali" washed down with a Kingfisher beer. After lunch rode the short distance back to the venue that had a Royal Enfield motorcycle traffic jam.Unbelievable but true.
Start of "DIRT RACE 350 CC" on "Dirt Track.
.Later in the afternoon watched the first racing event which was the "350 CC Dirt Track" qualifications for beginner riders held on the large main ground.There were three qualification rounds from which the first four riders from each group qualified for the finals. Reminded me of horse racing and i am sure private "BETS" were being placed on various riders .The Amateur "350 CC Dirt Race" was followed by the professionals and again the same format although these riders were better experienced.From the "Dirt Track " races made my way to another section of the large round to the "Obstacle Race" track where women riders were displaying their skills in trying to ride their bike over obstacles kept on the track in a straight line.This was similar to "Horse Steeplechase" .
Music and carnival entertainment at Hill top
To me it was less dangerous than riding on the "crater pot hole" monsoon roads along the Mumbai-Goa highway and vice versa.This was definitely difficult and none of the few women i watched could complete the circuit .Luckily their falls were on a artificial designed track and they wore body protective clothing.Later in the evening attended the "Live " music concerts at both the stages with the young crowd and the young in mind enjoying the festival and music.At the main "Hill top Stage" ground ,"Nash Jr" spun his DJ music which was followed by the "Royal Enfield Collective band", a mix of various different musicians from different bands on stage performing excellent "Cover songs" just for the festival .
With Makarand Vaidya and Pritish.Palekar.at Hill Top.
Ask Mick Jagger or actress Rekha and they would say that "Age is just a number " for a minuscule few akin to a few accumulating"Cannot count my money" wealth tags during a lifetime.Health is wealth and a balance between personal monetary wealth and personal physical wealth is a answer humans have been searching since the dawn of civilization.Steve.Jobs, one of the World's wealthiest men succumbed to Cancer at the young age of 56 years and one of his quotes during treatment for his fatal illness is one of my mantra's of lifestyle and living. Wearing of "Face Masks" among a few of the revelers was a sight to behold . Came across "Facebook" friend Mr Pritish.Palekar based in Mumbai who had ridden from Pune along with his friend mr Makarand.Vaidya. It's a small. World.Dinner was a "Pizza Snack" at the live concert venue on the main grounds situated next to the dirt and flat track racing grounds with band "Agnee" performing Hindi rock music. After the music rode back to "Seinfelds Hostel" which was very conveniently located for my tour itinerary.I was authentically haggard and tired after 602 Kms ride from Mumbai and lack of sleep. That's life and living in the World of extreme adventure sports and travel. Ahoy !
Flat track racing ground. Demonstration race in progress with some of the best riders in the Country exhibiting their riding prowess..
"MOTOBALL(Mobike football)" game in progress.
Saturday(23/11/2019) :- Normal morning as usual with 3 hours of sleep and later on the laptop until the break of dawn.Breakfast was at the now familiar "Orange Cafe" and later rode to the Hill Top grounds conducting the "Royal Enfield Rider Mania" .Felt i was on the Mahalaxmi racecourse grounds of Mumbai with motorcycles replacing race horses as such was the ambiance and vastness of the Hill Top Vagator ground. A "Motoball" match was in progress which is akin to polo being played on motorcycles with the ball being a large sized soft football and the goalposts shortened akin to "Rink Football".Something innovative and different."Royal Enfield" had installed a mobile "Repair Service centre" on a small section of the ground for free examination of bikes at the festival and hence got my motorcycle examined by the technical staff .
"CLEANEST( BEST MAINTAINED) " R.E Bikes.
The drive chain was lubricated as also the kick-starter hardness reduced .After servicing my bike headed back to the hostel and relaxed.Lunch was a beer with "Pomfret Thali" at the now familiar "Home Spice" restaurant.After lunch rode the short 1,5 Kms uphill distance to Hill Top Vagator .There was a contest for the cleanest motorcycle and looking at some of these well preserved and maintained Royal Enfields made me feel my 8 month old bullet was older ! It costs time, money and a love for motorcycles to maintain aged bikes in gleaming and operational condition.A very expensive hobby.
Carrying your RE to Finish Post competition.
Two vintage "Bullet Bikes" owned by Kolhapur bikers won the first and second prize.For motorcycling races there was the "Flat " as well as a "Dirt Track" and witnessed both the races featuring some of the best riders in India.The festival had entertainment and contests for children and women and hence got to witness the women's beer drinking competition.Something different from the usual.A unique event was carrying a "Royal Enfield" across a certain distance by a group of people as a single person definitely wouldn't accomplish the task.A real grueling contest .As the Sun set and the day's events came to a close it was time for music and entertainment.
Motorcycle Carnival at Hill Top Stage in Vagator
Live music of different genres was on display on two different stages 1) Hill Top Stage and 2) Hill Top Concert ground stage of the sprawling plateau hill top ground. Hence viewers were spoilt for choice and i had to shuttle between the two stages which was quite a long walk. Watched the Indian alternative rock band "Avial" from Kerala perform "Alternative Malayalam rock" singing rock music in the Malayalam language. A first to me in my decades of rock attendances in India.Their lead singer looked chic in his Lungi while gyrating and crooning to Malayalam Rock.Yes, "Royal Enfield Rider Mania -2019" was definitely unique and a multicultural bonding of the brotherhood of motorcyclists across India and the world.After the music shows rode the short downhill distance back to my hostel.
The Hill Top Stage locale of the "Royal Enfield Rider Mania" festival.This was the main venue of the "Royal Enfield Rider Mania -2019".Lots of "Food Stalls","Motorcycle Accessory Stalls", a Speakers lounge and a main elevated centre stage for events and music shows .
Historic St Michael's Church(1613) in Anjuna.
Sunday(24/11/2019) :- After breakfast at Adda "Orange Cafe" walked back to the hostel and later drove towards Mapusa with my destination being "St Michael's Church" in Anjuna.It was a short 1.5 Kms ride and on entering the compound found the church entry doors locked.Mass was at 1000 hrs and was just in time when the Church caretaker opened the doors of one of the oldest standing churches in Goa built in 1613 . Entered the sacred precinct and was happy at the excellently maintained internal structure of this historical church . The clergy as well as the archaeological department should be congratulated for maintaining and renovating this church on the lines of its original construction .
"Women's Beer drinking" contest.
.In Mumbai i was saddened at the pathetic state of St Andrews Church in Bandra which is older than St Michael's Church in Anjuna having been built in 1575. Bandra locality in Mumbai, a bastion of the East Indian Catholic population of Mumbai is identical to Goa in the number of churches per Sq Km of area. From the Church rode directly to now familiar adda Hill Top Vagator and after a few photographs for the memory bank was in time to watch the exciting game of "MOTO BALL".The game lasts a total of only 10 minutes with 5 minutes each half and a rest interval.Exciting and very dangerous akin to "Horse Polo" with the motorcycle replacing a polo pony and human legs instead of sticks for shooting a goal .The game ended in a draw with the winner being decided by penalties.
On a Custom built RE bike on exhibit.
None of the motorcycle riders could score in the penalty kicks penalty shoot-out and finally in a bizarre fashion the goalkeepers penalty was the decider . "Kings Auto Riders" from Pune were the winners .This sport originated in France and was first played in the 1930's and thanks to "Royal Enfield Rider Mania" carnival got to witness this thrilling and dangerous sport.In France there are organized "MOTOBALL" competitions and this sport was included in the Goodwill Games.After watching the "Motoball" game returned back to the hostel and relaxed with a beer. Lunch was "Lemon fish Thali" at adda "Home Spice " ,akin to eating in a private household.
"Royal Enfield " Historian ,author and rider Mr Gordan.G.May had ridden from Nordcapp in Europe to Cape Town in South Africa.He explained his travel through 29 country's in 110 days and the hurdles he faced which included major breakdown of his bike.He has been riding Classic motorcycles since 35 years ,Rarely does a motorcycle enthusiast get to meet a person of Mr Gordon.G.May's credentials in the World of motorcycle travel.
After lunch rode back to Hill Top venue and listened to a talk by eminent "Royal Enfield " Historian and rider Mr Gordan.G.May who had ridden from Nordcapp in Europe to Cape Town in South Africa.
"Ring Toss Challenge " on the ground.
He explained his travel through 29 country's in 110 days and the hurdles he faced which included major breakdown of his bike.After the educative lecture from one of the World's authorities on "Royal Enfield" motorcycles headed to the main "Dirt and Flat " track ground.Witnessed the "King of the Dirt" race of 12 laps around the "Dirt Track" by some of the best motorcycle dirt riders in the country.All the participants were winners and finally only one of them would be crowned "King of Dirt Track".Had seen "Dirt Track" practice in Cape Town in South Africa and today at the Hill Top saw a different type of "Dirt Race".The "King of Dirt Race" was won by N0 89 Mr Mohammad.Zaheer who had previously also won the "Novice" and "Expert" class Dirt races.After the "King of the Dirt" race next was a exhibition of "Flat Racing" by some of the best overseas and Indian riders reminding me of the "Malaysian Moto GP" in Sepang.
Expensive Motorcycle merchandise on sale
I was now satisfied of seeing and experiencing most of what the motorcycle World had to offer .Yes ageing does have its advantages !From the dirt track walked the distance back to the main Hill Top stage where all the entertainment and various motorcycle accessory shops displayed their expensive products .The last time i came across Motorcycle accessories costing in thousands of rupees was at the 2007 Malaysian Moto GP which was a World event in motorcycling.Here at Hill Top Vagator i was amazed at the 5-star costs of motorcycle products and also happy that now a genuine Motorcycle prodigy from India need not search overseas for World class motorcycle equipment as they were all available in India in Indian rupees.
Your's truly wants to ride back home !
When would India produce its first "MOTO GP WINNER" or "DIRT TRACK WINNER " ? A highlight of this years festival was the inauguration of the "Slide School" by Mr Vinod.Dasari ,CEO of Royal Enfield .The first edition of this "Slide School" will commence in January 2020 at Big Rock Dirt park in Bangalore and a future International star could rise from this Institution. Remember professional motorcycling is a very expensive hobby and only the very wealthy can afford this dangerous sport and hence most "Moto GP" and "Dirt Track" riders are from Developed or "First World " country's having high incomes.In India the motorcycle is a cheap mode of private transport but a extreme luxury as also physically dangerous if into long distance cruising as were all riders attending "Royal Enfield Mania" . It's no joke riding a minimum cruising distance of 100 Kms on Indian highway's let alone 610 Kms that made me a firm contender to "Braggers Rights Club" !
Dance and music in the evening at Hill Top stage.
This is the charm and reasons that makes motorcycling popular and addictive although extremely dangerous.At the Hill Top stage ground came across a bizarre sight of a beautiful stray cat calmly relaxing in the midst of the packed crowd.This cat was larger than a normal cat and looking at its tail i presumed it could be a "Main Coon Mix breed". Goa has numerous foreigners living within various locales of the Union territory and many own fancy pedigree pets . This freak cat could be a off-shoot of mating between a stray and a "Main Coon Cat" owned by some resident tourist.
"Trademark Beards" of the Brotherhood of Motorcyclists.
This was the last day of the motorcycle carnival in which approximately 8000 Royal Enfield riders from across India and the world had assembled and participated in various events during these 3 days.Came across Mr JP(Jayprakash) who had ridden all the way from Ahmedabad and was a competitor to my style of beard that was a public rage.Requested him for a photograph .Understood the definition of the "BROTHERHOOD OF MOTORCYCLISTS" as also the " WOMEN'S GANG OF MOTORCYCLISTS".All good thing come to a end and "Royal Enfield Rider Mania -2019" wound up in the evening with the grand festival concerts on the two different stages of the ground.
"PARIKRAMA" performing at Hill Top concert ground.
Made my way to the Hill Top Concert ground for the music entertainment ."Dualist Inquiry" was the first band to perform followed by "Parikrama" and was hearing them for the first time.They play only instrumental music and are one of the best in India in that genre of music. Had contacted Byculla childhood friends Mr Agnello .Lobo and Mr Francis.D'Mello of my stay in Goa and Mr Agnello.Lobo was at the concert venue along with his friend which had a houseful crowd to hear one of India's top most band "Parikrama" bring down the curtain to "Royal Enfield Rider Mania-2019". Excessive cold beer drinking during winter gives me a allergic cough and to my horror it again relapsed after a few years of being dormant. Rode the short 1.5 Kms distance back to "Seinfeld Hostel" and with intermittent coughing had my unusual 2 to 3 hrs of sleep.
At "CHAPORA FORT" in Bardez located at a altitude over the Chapora river.Beautiful views from all sides of this Fort as can be seen in this photo.Only the ruins of the boundary fortified walls of Chapora Fort are intact while the entire plateau of the Fort that once house barracks and housing is empty a wasteland.
Culinary Delicacy :-"Goa Sausages" in Mapusa Market
Monday(25/11/2019) :- As usual was on the Internet until daybreak. Later rode the long distance to Mapusa inquiring my bearings along the way regarding direction as it was a straight drive but cross-roads along this straight drive. A wrong turn would mean Kms of aimless riding as distances are long in Goa and few locals along the way for direction guidance. Had ridden along with Agnello .Lobo down this route in May and towards the end could recollect a part of that drive.As a "Name-dropper" traveller across city's and Country's its difficult for me at times to recollect route directions although i would remember the locality in any part of the Globe that i have visited.Parked my bike at Mapusa bus stand which is next to Mapusa market .Breakfast was at hotel Panchganga situated inside the bus stand building.
Surfing in Goa :- At Orzan( Little Vagator) beach"
.Excellent large "Sada Dossa" with Goa Bun and two cups of teacosting Rs 100.Next was the agenda of searching for the shop selling the famed "GOA SAUSAGES"and luckily a elderly lady guided me to two street vendors in the market and got to learn the basics of Goa sausage" manufacturing and sales. Back home in Mumbai "Fish Marketing" is my daily routine akin to office duty! After purchasing the "Goa Sausages" rode back to "Seinfelds" hostel.Hostel manager Mr Mangesh.Kathar was helpful in guiding me to the nearest tourist locales in Anjuna. How could i ever say good-bye to Goa without having a dip at any one of its famed beaches.
View of "Little Vagator(Orzan)beach"from car park area.
Having visited almost all the popular beaches of Goa was surprised that one of its best secluded beaches "Little Vagator(Orzan) Beach" was just a short riding distance from "Seinfelds hostel". Rode the 2 Kms distance from Seinfelds hostel past Hill Top to the parking lot situated on the edge of the hill overlooking Little Vagator(Orzan) beachA beautiful sight from the hill from where it was a downward descent through steps to the beach area.Excellent beach with brown not white sand and absolutely clean .If blindfolded and let lose on this strip of Goa's beach i would have thought i was in some part of Europe.Bikini clad Caucasian tourists were in equal number or more that Indian or coloured tourists.Just waded along this beautiful beach and the salt water freshened my tired body and muscles .
Little Vagator(Orzan) Beach absolutely beautiful.
.Charges for a hammock were Rs 200 and this particular strip of beach was the locale where the "Hippy Culture" of Goa began in the late 1960's during the Vietnam war. This tiny strip of beach land was the source of Goa being on the International tourist map of Europe as a beach and partying destination in India .After having my ritual sea dip rode the short distance back to Seinfelds hostel and at Anjuna Bharath petrol pump junction came across a large motorcycle group from Bangalore heading back home after the "Royal Enfield rider Mania" festival.A real expensive and dangerous hobby and as for me would never ever exchange my 2 wheeler for a 4 wheeler.
Sea-dip on "Little Vagator(Orzan) beach.
Age would one day take its toll but till that day it's motorcycle cruising on land post retirement after 23 years of Marine Engineering employment cruising on ships on the high seas.Cruising on ships was my employment wages of a lifetime while cruising on a "R.E" motorcycle on land was a luxury hobby and not employment .Change is permanent. Ahoy ! A few of us ex-sailors would die of boredom from just idleness rather than lack of money or savings for "Old Age"! Once at the hostel changed over from chilled beer to a peg of "Goa Fenny" as a Ayurveda cure for my legendary annual climate change winter cough and cold.Once years ago even had a "Cancer Check-up " for the same as it's a annual allergy sickness. Last lunch in Goa was"Lepo fish thali " costing Rs 100 at the usual adda "Spice Home" .After lunch i rode to Chapora Fort situated about 2.0 Kms from Vagator Bharath petrol pump. After parking my bike it was a steep climb up stairs to the entrance of the Fort.Only the boundary walls of the Fort are intact while inside it's just plain barren land.Beautiful view of Goa beaches from the summit of this Fort.
Main entrance gate to CHAPORA FORT.
Finally made my way back to the hostel and decided to rest as a long ride to Mumbai awaited me the next day..In the night walked towards the petrol pump junction and akin to wild-life spotting was at the right place at the right time to spot two stray bulls in a vicious fight on the middle of this main junction road.A crowd gathered while one man tried to break the vicious fight by pouring water on the bulls.The fight finally broke up and both the bulls parted ways in different directions probable to fight another day. After ages viewed a authentic "Bull fight" of bulls and not matadors and bulls .Dinner was "Prawns /Goa Pao" at Diya Fast food at "Anjuna Bharath Petrol pump" junction.
Dinner at "Diya Fast Food" street cafe . .
.While having dinner noticed a angler who came on a scooter and deposited some freshly caught fish at the mobile cafe.This is Goa at its best with fresh caught hooked fish from Vagator coast sold directly to restaurants.After my last dinner in Goa walked the short distance back to "Seinfeld hostel".
Highway NH 66 :-Return ride back from Goa to Mumbai.
Tuesday(26/11/2019) Departure Goa and arrival Mumbai :- As usual a sleepless night and at 0500 hrs packed my luggage onto the bike and at approximately 0530 hrs rode away from "Seinfeld Hostel" in Anjuna to destination Old Prabhadevi road in Mumbai.It was pitch dark in the morning but the highway road to Mapusa was a familiar and straight direct road from "Vagator Bharath Petrol Pump" junction in Anjuna.On reaching Mapusa asked for directions to the main Goa- Mumbai highway and from then onwards began my ride on the highway to hell to Mumbai as sung by Indian rock group "Pentagram" in bringing down the curtains to "Royal Enfield rider mania -2019".I decided to take the "NH 66" highway route from Goa to Panvel for the first time in my life which was Goa-Sawantwadi-Chiplun- Khed-Panvel. The highway was a nightmare of pot-holes and gravel for any two-wheeler vehicle and in pitch darkness i lost direction and luckily a few early morning walkers guided me on the right highway.As daylight made visibility perfect it was the psychological horror of viewing the condition of the highway that gave me that sinking feeling of riding on a Titanic.
Breakfast stop on Highway NH66.
There were numerous diversions along the highway due to road repairs and besides this avoiding unexpected moon crater potholes was another game of luck and skill in piloting the RE-Bullet-350.At 0945 had a short stop-over at a highway tea-stall for tea and batata-wada breakfast.Although the roads were bad the scenery was beautiful with the Western Ghats(Sahyadri mountains) looming on either sides of the single lane highway.At 1200 hrs reached Chiplun a large city situated on the banks of the river Vashishti in coastal Ratnagiri district.Mumbai was now 320 Kms away from Chiplun and after a long non-stop ride my hunger pangs finally made me halt mid-way at "Happy Punjabi Dhabha" situated at Parle-Wadi in Poladpur town of the district of Ratnagari.
Rest-Stop lunch at Parle Wadi in Poladpur.
At 1445 hrs lunch was Punjabi style chicken curry with parathas and a cup of kadak tea.After lunch began my non-stop 200 Kms ride to Mumbai from Poladpur and had to cross the treacherous "Kashedi Ghat" which has a reputation of being haunted due to numerous accidents on this stretch of the Goa -Mumbai coastal highway.I thought the curves of "Amboli Ghat" were treacherous but "Kashedi Ghat" had earned its "Haunted " reputation due to sheer blinding curve turns that in a fraction of distraction or engine mechanical failure could result in a fatal accident.Finally after negotiating "Kashidi Ghat " was back to the normal highway road.
Lunch on highway :"Happy Punjabi Dhaba
As usual there were diversions on the main highway road and rarely could i ride my bike at optimum highway speed which brought back memories of all my rides on the "Kolhapur-Pune( NH48)" highway road where i tested my RE maximum speed. .Never in my life did i feel so haggard as on this long coastal ride from Goa to Mumbai on the treacherous NH66 highway.This year entire state of Maharashtra including Goa had received abnormal late rainfall and this was one of the reasons for this coastal highway being a nightmare for 2-wheeler vehicles.Finally at approximately 1800 hrs reached Panvel where i got confused regarding the highway route from Panvel to Mumbai.Stopped alongside a parked motorcycle and inquired for directions to Mumbai.Seemed the motorcycle had a puncture and one of the collegian riders requested me for a pillion lift along the highway while guiding me in the right direction to Mumbai.Thanked him for the favour and it was a long pillion ride through a recently built highway over-head bridge crossing past the new Panvel airport under construction and finally on the main road to Mumbai. Dropped the young collegian student at the Mumbai -Panvel crossroad and headed home in heavy congested Mumbai traffic.Finally at 1945 hrs reached home in Prabhadevi, a total ride of 14 hrs on the RE saddle.Ahoy !
