At the young age of 58 years it suddenly struck me that my life and lifestyle was getting boring and stagnant as besides travelling across different country's and Indian city's there was nothing left for me to accomplish in "EXTREME ADVENTURE SPORTS".
"First Mumbai Store(Worli)":- Delivery of "BULLET 350 "
As a ordinary civilian i had seen it all and done it all and hence with the purchase of my "Bullet 350 Black BS IV" decided it was time to venture into long distance "Bare back Solo Motorcycling" across India.My previous motorcycle "Bajaj Wind-125 CC" which i had ridden for 15 years got me involved in 2 serious motorcycle accidents in 2004 and 2007 with both accidents requiring hospitalization . In 2004 i had done my first solo 152 + Kms riding to Pune on my "Bajaj Wind-125 CC" to attend the " Pune Derby -2004 " race day.
Retired 15 year old "Bajaj Wind-125 cc ".A workhorse.
On the way near Lonavala a pothole fall from my bike resulted in dislocation of my left shoulder.Should have received a "Bravery Award" for riding with a "Dislocated shoulder "from Lonavala to Pune and getting myself admitted into the "Inlaks and Budhrani " hospital at Koregaon Park in Pune .Hence instead of watching the Pune Derby horse race got my shoulder temporarily fixed in its socket and after a day's stay at the hospital rode back 152 Kms to Mumbai . In 2007 while returning from Juhu hotel in Juhu after the wedding reception of cousin Mr Zubin.Furtado got thrown off my motorcycle onto the road losing consciousness and waking up in "Bhabha Hospital" in Bandra with a broken left jaw bone. No attempt for "Bravery Awards" as this accident almost killed me. Unbelievable and true.Readers of my blogs would have read about these accidents and wonder if i was sane to start a new extreme adventure career in solo motorcycling across India at my young age . Someone said "You are as Old as you think" and i totally agree with the same.What's life and living without a little danger and action for a ageing bachelor ?
First servicing for the "SOLO RIDING to BARKUR"
Why begin my Bonny( Hindi slang for first) long distance motorcycle from Mumbai to Barkur in Udipi district of Karnataka and not to some other city in India ? The Villages of Barkur and Mabukala in the district of Udipi happens to be my parents ancestral villages and have memories of holidaying in these villages during my childhood with later occasional visits as a adult .Over the decades the lifestyle of these ancestral villages changed along with the gradual demise of my elder relatives which included my grand parents.My paternal uncle Mr William.Furtado , the last agriculturist in our family expired in 2018 at the age of 90 years and i was in awe at his natural fitness when well into his 80's.
"Bullet 350":- Oldest Global motorcycle brand..
In 2008 at the age of 80 years if Uncle William could tire me during a walk across the river and Barkur village farm estate why could i not attempt long distance motorcycling like my motorcycling hero Valentino.Rossi(The Doctor) at the young age of 59 years ? Valentino. Rossi whom i personally saw racing at the Malaysian Grand Prix in Sepang in 2007 in which he placed a distant second behind Australian Casey.Stoner is in 2019 competing with riders who must have been babies when he first rode in a 125 CC race. Isn't age just a number ? Hence decided to travel to Barkur village on the World's longest continuously produced model motorcycle "Bullet 350 Black BS IV" to attend Uncle William's First year death anniversary.
On Saturday(27/4/2019) got my motorcycle its first free service at the "Royal Enfield " service centre "First Mumbai Store LLP" situated at B.D.D Chawls at Worli in Mumbai.Not actually free as the charges for oil, etc amounted to Rs 1250.Owning and maintenance of my "Royal Enfield Bullet" was akin to a racehorse in comparison to the "Bajaj Wind -125 CC" which was equivalent to a pony.
Motorcycle odyssey Starts from home in Vaibhav Apartments at Old Prabhadevi road in Mumbai at 0530 hrs.
Sunday(28/5/2019) MOTORCYCLE SAFARI BEGINS FROM MUMBAI :- Riding 567 Kms on my "Bullet 350 Black BS IV" from Mumbai to Goa.
At 0700 hrs reached the main bifurcation road leading to Khopoli which is the "Old Mumbai-Pune Route" for 2 wheelers. Note :- 2 Wheelers irrespective of cost or Status are not allowed on the "Mumbai -Pune Expressway".A number of expensive heavy duty Bikes whizzed passed me and was amazed at their speed.
At 0800 hrs reached Lonavala famous for its "Lonavala Chikki".
Passing through one of the numerous "Highway Toll Booths" . Advantage of 2-wheelers is that there is no payment of "Toll tax" unlike 4-wheelers.
Energy drink of "Sugarcane Juice" on the highway road .Blistering hot summer and a test of stamina and riding skills.
The Highway road NH4 from Satara to Kholapur is lined with Sugarcane plantations and was my only source of thirst refreshment as well as a energy drink.
Excellent World class NH4 Highway and a pleasure for motorcycle cruising. Akin to riding on a "MOTO GP" racing circuit.
At 1430 had a brief halt at "Hotel Jaihind" at Karnelwadi on the highway NH4 leading to Belgaum. Had my tiffin lunch of oysters prepared by house caretaker Ms Sabina.Dias. Due to bumps along the route the luggage in my dicky had shifted and a glucose packet kept along with the tiffin got dislodged with the entire glucose powder spilling inside the tiny dicky. Had to get my laptop thoroughly cleaned and luckily it was not damaged. NOTE :- Don't pack food packets into enclosed spaces while travelling on a two wheeler as in case of spillage it could be disastrous.
The landmark hotel "Satyawati" on main Belgaum highway NH4 for changing directions onto the Highway route to Goa.Notice the gentleman using the umbrella protection from intense April hot Sun and not because of rain .
Finally at 1500 hrs reached the main bifurcation road opposite "Hotel Satyawati" on NH4 leading to Belgaum.Took the highway road opposite this landmark hotel at Nipani for the route to Goa .Another 158 Kms of road mileage for the saddle !
At 1615 hrs reached the town of Ajara reminding me of the mango season.
Refueling on the final homestretch ride to Goa.
A traffic congestion on the treacherous narrow Amboli Ghats highway.
Riding through scenic Sawantwadi on the route to Goa.
Reached Mapuca at 1900 hrs, a total of 13.5 hrs road travel riding.Finally after some phone calls to Agnello and Francis finally rode to the ancestral residence of Byculla childhood friend Mr Francis.D'Mello in Calangute . Chilling the night with beers and dinner at "Punjabi Kitchen".
Ancestral Residence of Mr Francis D'Mello at "Punjabi Kitchen" on Calangute. St Anthony's Chapel in the distance is the dominant historic landmark of one of the busiest tourist localities in Goa.
"BYCULLA BOYS OF THE 1970's GENERATION " :- We three lived in the same chawl style building at Byculla in Mumbai in a different era and different time frame when Mumbai was called Bombay and the Internet and smart phones a science fiction fantasy. How the World has changed since then and here today we meet at "Cafe Antonio" on Anjuna beach .PHOTO (L-R) :- Mr Agnello.Lobo, Mr Rudolph.Furtado and Mr Francis D'mello. .
View of Ramparts of "Fort Aguada".
Monday(29/4/2019) Calangute. Goa :- Francis and myself visited the palatial 19th century Portuguese era ancestral residence of Aunt Patricia.Gonsalves, the wife of my maternal uncle Mr Wilfred.Gonsalves.They are Canadian citizens and have redeveloped a part of this ancestral estate with modern amenities while strictly conserving its external ancient Portuguese architecture.One negative factor of Goa's basic infrastructure is the lack of power supply with "Load Shedding" being a common occurence throughout the day in various arts of the State.All the numerous tourist hotels have generators for private power supply during the irregular load shedding while private houses have Inverters installed for running basic appliances like fan's and cooking gadgets. Uncle Wilfred has all the modern amenities including air-conditioners fitted in the sprawling Bungalow but couldn't use the same due to power outages as Inverters can't be used to run air-conditioner's.Goa is awfully humid and hot in summer and both my Uncle and Aunt accustomed to cold Canadian climate including us visitors were feeling the humidity although the bungalow had air-conditioner's . Yes, money can't buy you everything and lack of electric supply in the State of Goa is a major setback . While Aunt Patricia prepared lunch Francis and myself on guidance from Uncle Wilfred decided to sight-see Fort Aguada as also Mr Vijay.Mallya's former playground farmhouse "Kingfisher Villa" that was always on "Page 3" news for it's party's a la Great Gatsby style during the hey day's of the Industrialists celebrity fame and megabucks money spending.
19th century ancestral House of Aunt Patricia in Candolim.
We rode past the former "Kingfisher Villa" which now had the bold name "Kings Mansion" instead of "Kingfisher Villa" as also the name of the new owner Mr Sachin.Joshi embossed on the compound wall.Further down the road and on a incline up the hill was the historic ruins of Fort Aguada with the iconic "Taj Fort Aguada resort" occupying a significant portion of this 17th century Portuguese Fort. From the ramparts of the Fort Aguada a viewer gets a bird's eye view of the beaches.After lunch with Uncle Wilfred and Aunt Patricia at this beautiful scenic heritage bungalow estate proceeded to Anjuna to the residence of Mr Agnello.Lobo,Found difficulty in finding his residence and after stopping the mobike at various spots inquiring the location of "Miguel Pequeno" finally discovered his residence.
View of Anjuna beach and its famous "Beach Shacks".
A large sprawling Old World Goan bungalow situated in Miguel Pequeno village within walking distance to Anjuna beach.Later in the evening visited the beach shack "Cafe Antonio" facing the Arabian sea.It was peak high tide and we sipped beer watching the Sun set gradually over the Arabian sea.Next visit was to Mrs Carmen. Pires residence at Modlem Morod in Mapuca. The Coutinho family were our neighbours in Mombasa in Kenya and head of the household widower Mrs D.Coutinho was a friend of my mother and .although a young child i vividly remember the entire family with young Carmen.Coutinho now grandmother Mrs Carmen.Pires gifting me a Siamese cat "Ferdie".My first initiation into Rock & Roll music was through the young Coutinho family of the 1960's.We got in touch through "Facebook" and finally with great difficulty through telephone finally reached Mrs Carmen.Pires's residence.Got to meet her entire family including her husband Mr Victor.Pires. Time and tide spares no one and the image of Victor and Carmen of the 1960's was different in 2019 with Mr Victor.Peres totally unrecognizable with age taking its toll. Finally rode back to Francis's residence in Calangute and after a late dinner in "Punjabi Kitchen" went to sleep at well past midnight.
These are not "PASSENGER MERCHANT SHIPS " on the Mandovi river in Panjim but giant "FLOATING CASINO ENTERTAINMENT SHIPS". There are a total of 6 large off-shore Casino ships on the Mandovi river across Panjim.
Tuesday(30/4/2019) Anjuna. Goa.;-
Dona Paula Viewpoint: Confluence of Mandovi & Zuari.
Breakfast was a "Punjabi Kitchen" and later rode to Panjim.Visited Dona Paula the costliest residential locality in Goa that is home to Industrialists and politicians of the State.Rode upto the gates of the Raj Bhavan located next to the palatial "Marvel Colony" on the hill. Next rode down the hill to Dona Paula boat jetty where i was lucky to spot local fishermen arriving with a catch of oysters harvested from the sea rocks.One of the young fisherman was wearing a skin dive suit along with snorkel gear and harvesting oysters definitely involved 'Free diving" skills.The Dona Paula viewpoint rock from where a tourist gets to view the confluence of the Mandovi and Zuari rivers was closed for tourists as it was under repairs.
Ancestral Farmhouse of the Lobo Family in Anjuna.
From Dona Paula cruised along Miramar was surprised to find large Casino ships parked on the Mandovi river .Change is permanent and since my last visit to Goa and Panjim about 19 years ago akin to Mumbai's multi million dollars skyscraper buildings skyline so also the Panjim waterfront had sprouted a flotilla of "Casino Ships".From Panjim returned back to Calangute and after a late lunch at "Punjabi Kitchen" which served complimentary food to Mr Francis D'mello and me as his guest .Finally in the evening drove to Agnello.Lobo's residence in Anjuna. Spotted two male peacocks on the roof of Mr Agnello.Lobo's house which speaks volumes of the natural beauty of the locale.A mix labrador dog "Lilly" gifted to Mr Agnello.Lobo by a foreigner was their house guard and pet.Goa has a large number of resident foreign tourists who reside in different beach locales of the state for months , most common being Russians and Britishers. Most of them acquire pets which tragically they later abandon when going back to their Country of origin and "Lilly" was lucky to find a good home . Later "Lilly" was joined by a male mix-breed pit-bull terrier "Frank" , the neighbours dog which was very docile for the normal ferocity associated with the "Pit-bull Terrier" breed.A late night dinner in the beautiful village bungalow of Mr Agnello.Lobo .
A Glimpse of Anjuna Wednesday Flea Market. Anjuna is famous for its weekly "WEDNESDAY FLEA MARKET".
Mapuca Fish Market.
Wednesday(1/5/2019) Anjuna .Goa :- Was awake at 0500 hrs as usual and surprised to see Mr Agnello.Lobo already awake and relaxing in the open air verandah of the Bungalow estate.The Chirping of birds was music by itself and was hoping to spot the pair of peacocks.Strolled in the vicinity of the village and got a understanding of the relaxed Goan village lifestyle.There is a Village Chapel and the "Cycle Breadman" wakes up everyone with his air-horn while riding his "Bread Cycle" along the village road.In the village there is also a small stage for staging the annual village Konkani concerts.
Sunset observed from "Cafe Looda" in Anjuna.
Later in the morning Agnello and myself went searching for fish on my motorcycle by first visiting Vagator beach fish market and finally a long distance ride to Mapusa market.Purchased Squid and Mackarels and later after snacks at "Oven Fresh" cafe rode back to Anjuna. Later in the afternoon visited the famous "Anjuna Flea Market" and returned back to Agnelllo's farmhouse for a heavy lunch.In the evening walked through the "Flea Market" road that had shop's on either side of the narrow road selling various handicrafts, clothing and food. The road ends at Anjuna beach which has beach shacks lined across the coastline and thanks to host Mr Agnello .Lobo that we entered "Cafe Looda" that was playing live music.After the music got over at 2000 hrs we returned home and ended the night with beers and food.
\
Last day in Goa at Agnello .Lobo's residence in Anjuna before the long motorcycle ride to Barkur in Udipi district of South Canara in the State of Karnataka. MEMOIRS PHOTO OF MY HOSTS IN GOA ( L-R) :- Mr Rudolph.Furtado, Mr Francis.D'mello, Mr Agnello.Lobo and Mrs Teresa.Lobo. Thanks to my hosts that i got a inside view of traditional Goan village lifestyle and traditions .Living in 5-Star or tourist hotels and travelling in private vehicles makes you a "TOURIST" and not a "TRAVELER".
Thursday(2/5/2019) MOTORCYCLING 323 Kms FROM CALANGUTE IN GOA TO BARKUR IN KARNATAKA :-
Calangute to Barkur biking :- On the Panajim Highway.
Francis and myself left Mr Agnello.Lobo's residence early in the morning after a cup of coffee and after a long pleasant ride reached Francis's residence in Calangute. Fastened my luggage onto the motorcycle and at 0800 hrs finally bid goodbye to Francis .D'mello and to Goa heading into the next leg of the 320 Kms marathon motorcycle ride to Barkur in the State of Karnataka. On the approach to Margao came across a crowd that had gathered around a accident victim who looked dead with blood around the road.This sight was psychologically sad and scary as i had a long road distance ahead .On exiting Goa border and entering Karwar in the State of Karnataka had to slow down as Highway NH -66 was being broadened into 4 lanes and hence a few road diversions due to road construction work.
At 1230 hrs stopped at "Hotel Fishland" in Kumta for lunch which was "Prawn curry rice".
LUGGAGE SLIPPING FROM THE SADDLE :- Refastened my bags onto the bike near Bhatkal and began my onward journey on Highway NH-66 to Barkur. If travelling "SOLO" make sure your luggage is secured properly onto your back seat. I had used a combination of discarded "Cycle tubes" and Nylon rope to fasten my backpacks onto the seat.According to my personal experience "CYCLE TUBES" with their flexible elasticity is the best binding material for a motorcycle long ride over bumpy uneven roads.NYLON ROPES tend to loosen over a period of a long strenuous ride.
At around 1415 hrs while riding on Highway NH66 approaching Bhatkal heard the honk of a scooter behind me and its occupants informed me that my bag had slipped from the saddle.Lady luck favoured me and immediately parked onto a highway lane and refastened the binding ropes and tyres onto the bag and proceeded onwards towards destination Barkur.
At 1545 hrs riding on Highway NH66 ( Former NH 17) stopped at my mothers ancestral farmhouse bungalow situated at the base of Mabukala bridge on the banks of the scenic Sitanadi river.Nostalgic memories of childhood holiday's spent on this sprawling farm estate that resembled a private island as its location as seen in this photo makes it totally isolated from nearby human habitation except for rice fields and coconut plantations.
Finally at 1615 hrs a end of the 320 Kms journey from Goa and reached ancestral " FURTADO FARMHOUSE" of late Uncle William.Furtado in Barkur Hosala village of Udipi District of Karnataka.
Main "Car Street" of tiny historic Barkur Temple Town.
From Mabukal it was a short ride into "Barkur Temple Town", a town synonymous with ancient temples in the South Kanara district of Karnataka and was in the presence of my paternal relatives.My aunt Celina.Furtado, late Uncle William.Furtado's second wife was present along with her son's Mr Wilson.Furtado , Fr Johnson.Furtado and daughter Freeda. Fr Johnson.Furtado was based in Maputo in Mozambique and had personally met Pope Francis in the Vatican. .Mr Martin.Furtado, eldest of Uncle William's son from his first wifelate Mrs Leena.Furtado was also at home along with Uncle Winniebald.Furtado and aunt Flossy.Furtado. Later in the evening Mr Ronald.Furtado ,brother of Martin arrived from Delhi.
Has a "Furtado" ever ridden from Mumbai to Barkur ?
In Mumbai in the Internet era of communication we rarely meet and as they say funerals and weddings get people together and so also Uncle William Furtado's first death memorial service had assembled a few members of the large Furtado family at the ancestral home in Barkur. Most important was the fact that i had ridden 900 + Kms by motorcycle from Mumbai to Barkur. Something definitely to get entry into "Braggers Club Inc" and a homage to the last agriculturist of the Furtado family. Will be detailing the motorcycle rides and my own personal sightseeing and river snorkeling without detailing the Furtado family private personal matters as the occasion was a solemn gathering for the first death anniversary of Uncle William.Furtado .In my blogs and opinions i avoid discussing religion or politics although ironically our entire life is dominated by these two topics.In the era of internet and smartphones the word privacy has vanished from the vocabulary but in villages and among village communes a certain degree of privacy is the norm.
Entrance to "KATTALE BASSADI" temple complex in Barkur town.A excellently preserved temple complexalthough in ruins. . Just a few meters from the "Kattale Bassadi" temple complex is the "Chowlikere Ganapathy Temple" .Barkur is also a holy pilgrimage place for the Mogaveera (Fishing) community The numerous different temples withing this tiny town resulted in Barkur getting its tag of "Temple Town" of South Kanara district of Karnataka.
No fish in Sitanadi river of Barkur ?
Friday(3/5/2019) "Furtado Farmhouse" Barkur. :- Early in the morning rode to the main village town and had a morning snack of idli/chutney with coffee .Barkur Town's main street is called "Car Street", a small one street town akin to a one horse town.Mr Martin.Furtado and Mr Wilson.Furtado were the hosts and should say that the breakfast and food was something special.One of the most prominent houses on "Car Street" is of Mr Arthur.Furtado and met him while cruising the street on my bike.Among the Catholic community in Barkur village the "Furtado " clan from my Grandfather's lineage are a formidable number in the village .Later inquired as to the cause of demise of Mr Martin.D'souza , my childhood acquaintance from our Byculla building who had settled at his ancestral farmhouse in Barkur Town.He was younger than me and surprised to know that while attending his sister's daughter's wedding in Mumbai he suddenly collapsed on the dance floor succumbing to a heart attack.Informed Agnello and Francis in Goa regarding the cause of Martin's demise as we all grew up together flying kites, spinning top's and abusing each other at times. Innocent Bombay chawl style living childhood day's with malice towards none at all. Our acquaintances and friends demise as we age makes us realize our own mortalities .
Later in the morning snorkeled in Barkur river hoping to sight some fish and was aghast to find no trace of any living organism in the shallow waters of the Sitanadi river.Returned back to the house and Mr Wilson.Furtado advised me to visit the Fort and temples of Barkur .Thanks to the motorcycle that travelling was not a problem and hence visited the ruins of the Fort and the temples.Amazing architectural construction and now realized the reason Barkur Town is known as the Temple town in the State of Karnataka.Rang up maternal Cousin Oswald.Gonsalves and visited his small automobile workshop situated on the main highway at Uppinakote. My ambition was to snorkel at my former maternal grandparents farmhouse at Mabukala.
At the ruins of historic "BARKUR FORT".
The Sitanadi river that flows along my maternal grandparents former farm estate is considered to be the deepest in that vicinity and was a locale for "Dynamiting" fish during the 1960's when the same was a common method of catching fish without a hook or fishing net.Definitely destructive to the environment as akin to a bomb every living organism in the vicinity of the dynamite died .The same is now banned. This locale was also a regular haunt of the now extinct "River Otter" and thankfully i was lucky to see a river otter on my grandparents estate during the 1960's.Sadly in 2019 this was all confined to "National Geographic history" and it was on my "Bucket List" to relive my childhood wildlife observations by at least snorkeling and seeing the fish in this part of the river.
H.Gonsalves's farmhouse on west side of Mabukala Bridge
Rode alone to Mabukala and while descending a steep incline into the farmhouse estate my bike tilted to one side and i had to release the dead-weight of 180 Kg onto the ground.Felt a fool also thankful that there was no major damage to the bike. Now lifting the bike back onto its two wheels was a elephantine task with no immediate help.Finally rang up cousin Oswald who arrived on his bike and with the help of another person managed to lift the bike back onto its 2 wheels.Oswald's brother Hubert had also arrived on the scene and finally after starting the bike Hubert and myself rode to Oswald's residence at Hungarcutta.
Snorkeling in Mabukala. No Fish sighting
Met my maternal aunt Mrs Bibiana.Gonsalves and lunch was at Oswald's house along with his wife Sarita, their three children and Hubert. After lunch Hubert and myself rode to Hubert's farmhouse situated on the Western side of Mabukala bridge NH66 highway and the last original remnants of maternal Gonsalves family farmhouse in Mabukala village of Udipi district.This farmhouse was inherited by Late Uncle Thelespore.Gonsalves and passed over to son Mr Hubert.Gonsalves. From Hubert's farmhouse we crossed over the highway bridge onto the eastern side and walked into what was once my maternal Grandfather's farmhouse and later the inherited property of maternal uncle Mr Godwin.Gonsalves. This palatial property was now under a new ownership and wanted to find out the actual depth of the river in this locale which was famous for harbouring large size fish .During my youth it was taboo to venture for a swim in this part of the river flowing on the banks of my grandfather's estate.Today at age 59 it was time to break that taboo and see for myself as to what was frightening and scary about this vicinity of the Sitanadi river.
Opened on 23/5/1963 by "Shipping Minister"
Absentmindedly in my eagerness entered the water with my heirloom 40 year old stainless steel "Omega Seamaster" watch purchased by dad in 1979 strapped to my hand. On realizing my blunder was aghast but happy to note the watch withstood the water pressure. The cheapest "Omega " watch sells for over a lakh of Indian rupees and it was a miracle that water did not penetrate the casing.Handed over the watch to cousin Hubert with a poker face and was confused on bad luck striking me twice in the same locale. First my 180 Kg "Bullet 350" tip's over on its own weight and now here i dive into the water with a 40 year old collector item branded watch strapped to my wrist. "Omega Brand " watch was the first watch to step onto the Moon as well as the watch worn by the hero of the longest film franchisee, James Bond-007. I normally wear a cheap water proof wrist watch on my travels and hence accustomed to swimming with a watch which absentmindedly led to this blunder.Snorkeled in the deep river but just couldn't sight any fish and my silver ring purchased in Bangkok in 2005 happened to slip out of my finger.Another grotesque loss although of minimum monetary value.While searching for the ring in the shallow sand caught a tiny fish instead of the ring and after filming it released it into the river.
View of Mabukal Bridge from H.Gonsalves's Farmhouse.
Finally called it a day with my snorkeling making me realize that the fish were either afraid of human splashing or that the quantity of fish in the river had decreased due to over-fishing and sand dredging.Rode back to Barkur and on the way to Barkur took a diversion road into Kachur village for visiting a farm-house for a drink of "Toddy".Bizarrely while entering Barkur Furtado house compound my bike just happened to touch Martin's car door and took a sudden tilt again falling to the ground. Lightning can't strike twice and this time the consequence was severe with the engine "Kick Starter" jammed.
Bike uses petrol while i use "TODDY" as tonic drink !
Martin's friend and assistant in Barkur Mr Peter. D'souza arranged for a mechanic and thankfully he started the motorcycle with a few manouvres. I had ridden 900 + Kms from Mumbai to Barkur and bizarrely had two freak motorcycle incidents within the ancestral farmhouse complexes. Horror writer Stephen.King would have got ideas for a Haunting novel ? In the 1970's Mr Peter.D'souza once rescued me from drowning while swimming with my cousins in the Sitanadi river in Barkur. Yes that same young boy today in 2019 swims 2 Kms ++ daily and since 1970's , both Mr Peter.D'souza and myself have travelled a long distance in our lives. At dinner it was a real large family gathering and after decades met my cousins Freeda and Reshma .Reshma.Furtado was now Reshma.D'silva and was along with her husband Mr Treavor.D'silva and their two children.They had driven from Bangalore by car. Uncle Rozario.Furtado's grandson Mr Elton.Britto and Fr Jason.Furtado were also present .Ronald.Furtado's daughter Diana.Furtado arrived along with her child and husband Christopher.John.Almost the entire clan of Uncle William.Furtado's children were present at "Furtado Farmhouse" in Barkur for his first death anniversary commemoration mass service.
Congregation and guests at the First Anniversary memorial church service of Uncle William.Furtado and later lunch in the Church hall of St Peter's Church in Barkur. This religious ceremony was formal involving the Catholic clergy and the photographs are in a separate private collection . Cousin Mr Larry.Furtado and his nephew Mr Elton.Britto have documented the entire "First Anniversary Memorial " mass and lunch get-together in a separate album.
Late Uncle William.Furtado.
Saturday(4/5/2019) "Furtado Farmhouse) Barkur :- The day of Uncle William's first annual death anniversary mass at "St Peter's Church" hall in Barkur town.Sr Noelle Marie(Aunt Daisy.Furtado) arrived at Furtado farmhouse in the morning and later cousin Larry.Furtado arrived from Bangalore. St Peter's church building was under internal renovation and hence the mass was held at the church hall situated adjacent to the Church building.Mass was at 1100 hrs and as three of Uncle William's son's Nelson,Johnson and Jason were priests it didn't surprise me that a total of 11 priests including son's Fr Johnson and Fr Jaison conducted the memorial mass.After mass there was a grand lunch and had the opportunity to meet most of my relatives residing in Mangalore as also local villagers acquainted with my parents.
"Furtado Farmhouse" in Hosala village of Barkur.
After lunch we had to vacate the hall as it was booked for another event to be held at 1600 hrs.Surprising as i thought that the Catholic population was minuscule in comparison to the majority Hindu population of Barkur village with most former farming Catholic communities of the village abandoning farming as a profession and migrating to city's across India as well as migrating to other country's.My lineage of the "Furtado Family" of Barkur Hosala village is a prime case study of a total closure of the agriculture occupation within the different branches of the various family members with Uncle William.Furtado being the last practicing agriculturist.
"Gully Cricket"cricket on off-season rice fields in Barkur.
Hence my tribute motorcycle ride from Bombay now Mumbai to Barkur from where my father first ventured into Bombay city in search of employment . In the evening went snorkeling in the river near the house and once again was disappointed in not spotting a single fish.Once upon a time in the 1930's during my father's youth tigers did occasionally stray into Barkur village, something unbelievable in 2019.Seems the big fish in the Sitanadi river have gradually reduced in population or have become extinct in the locales akin to the tigers due to either over-fishing or water pollution.Strangely the weather in Barkur was cool and pleasant in the evenings and mornings as the month of May is one of the hottest months in South Kanara.
Coinage monument circle in Manipal has the 27 feet tall "Upendra Pai Memorial Coinage monument" installed .This monument was inaugurated in 2018 in honour of Tonse Upendra Pai who was the first member of the "Pai Family" to move to Manipal and also co-founder of "Syndicate Bank".Once in the 1960's a small time businessman Dhirubhai.Ambani first approached "Syndicate Bank" in Manipal for his first loan which was granted and the rest is "Reliance Industries Ltd" corporate history.
Manipal :- At Coinage Monument Circle.
Sunday(5/5/2019) "Furtado Farmhouse" in Barkur :- Early in the morning at around 0615 hrs while strolling along the farmhouse lawn suddenly spotted a flock of peacocks in the coconut plantation behind the house. They took flight on seeing me and having visited numerous national parks in India as well as Gujarat villages where peacocks are common never in my life did i come across such a large flock of peacocks akin to chickens. During my youth in the 1970's never ever spotted a peacock in the vicinity of "Furtado Farmhouse" as they used to live high up in the forested hills.Over the decades with the highland hills gradually being cleared of forest land for farmhouses the peacocks have migrated into the open flatland's of Barkur village housing fields and farmhouses.Beside's "CLIMATE CHANGE" seems Barkur village was undergoing a flora and fauna change. As it is a protected bird they are flourishing and i was amazed at seeing the largest number of peacocks in my lifetime right in the backyard of "Furtado Farmhouse".Later attended the 0700 hrs Sunday mass at St Peter's church hall in Barkur and after the mass rode the distance to Manipal city.In my adult years i always made it a point to visit Manipal which has become a name synonymous with professional education as well as being the cradle of India's banking Industry.Riding to Manipal on a motorcycle from Mumbai was a experience of a different elevation and was impressed by the cleanliness and town planning in this Oasis of elite education and banking in India.Breakfast was local "Neer Dossa" with tea at "Apna Parivar" restaurant.. In the restaurant met a retired banker whose daughter was studying medicine in Manipal and he guided me on the current status of this elite educational cum banking city of India. A young lady doctor doing Internship happened to step into the restaurant and inquired with her as to the cost of medical education in Manipal .She quickly replied that she was a "Merit Student" with the "Merit Fees" itself being beyond the affordability of India's average middle-class .
"Neer Dossa" in Manipal .
She explained me that N.R.I medical students were charged a flat 40,000 U.S $'s/annum as fees which is astronomical when converted to Indian rupees. Now i know the reason as to why "Munnabhai M.B.B.S" a la actor Sanjay.Dutt didn't try getting admission into Manipal medical college."Reliance Industry" founder Mr Dhirubhai.Ambani first approached "Syndicate Bank" in Manipal for a loan to start his business which is surprising as Industrialist Dhirubhai.Ambani was a Gujarati businessman and this speaks volumes of the banking tentacles of Manipal. Visited "Royal Embassy" ,the tallest and poshest building in Manipal which had all the modern clubhouse facilities although the swimming pool was of a children's pool dimension and was surprised to find the cost of flats affordable in comparison to Mumbai.Finally decided to bid the education and banking city of India goodbye and headed towards Barkur which is a distance of approximately 19.5 Kms from Manipal. Just 2 Kms away from Manipal is the town of Perampalli where i came across the recently constructed "Our Lady of Fatima Church" which was a architectural marvel reminding me of the World renowned "La Sagrada Familia" church of Barcelona.
Completed in 2017 . Landmark "Our Lady of Fatima Church"in Parampalli town of Udipi District..
From Manipal rode back home to Barkur and on the way after passing Kallianpur Bridge built over the river Swarna stopped at Uppoor village , the residence of the "Lewis Family" related through my maternal lineage.
View of Kallianpur Bridge from Uppoor.
As we grow up we all have certain family members whom we hold in awe as role models for various reasons and mum's uncle late Mr Ignatius.Lewis was one relative who inspired my "Stock Hobby" as well as my ambition to become rich in life.Among both my paternal as well as maternal relatives he was the wealthiest person of his generation and his annual birthday celebration in Mumbai was a eagerly awaited social event for us relatives. When i first drove the motorcycle past the locale i was confused but on inquiring with a neighbour was directed to late Mr Charles.Lewis's residence situated opposite late Mr Ignatius.Lewis's house.As mentioned earlier the Catholic agriculturists of Mangalore are gradually becoming extinct and same applied to the large "Lewis Family" of Uppoor .Met Mr Manna.Lewis and Mr Jerry.Lewis , son's of Mr Charles.Lewis who were living in their ancestral farmhouse and was sad to see the farmhouse of late Mr Ignatius.Lewis in ruins as it was abandoned.
Snorkeling in Sitanadi in Kachur Village .No Fish sighting
That's life and only change is permanent.Rode back home to Barkur.Later decided to explore the Sitanadi river flowing past Kachur village in close proximity to Barkur Bridge.The incentive of also having a drink of toddy at Kachur village was another reason for "Snorkeling expedition Kachur Village". It was a short 3 Kms ride from "Furtado Farmhouse" to Kachur village and the river water was at maximum high tide.Ventured into the water and as usual didn't spot a single aquatic creature in the calm desolate river water.After snorkeling aimlessly within a imaginary radius of the deep river waters returned back to shore and after purchasing a few litres of toddy rode back to the farmhouse.
Am i in the Second most populated Country in the World ?
Everyone in the household appreciated the quality of the "Toddy" and decades of liquor tasting did make me a connoisseur in grading alcoholic drinks.The "Kachur Toddy" was definitely of high grade quality. The family guests who had arrived for the memorial ceremony gradually made arrangements for departure.My cousin Mr Larry.Furtado had specially flown from Bangalore for the memorial service and should say that the "Furtado Family" of late Mr Eusebius and Mrs Bridgette.Furtado lineage have definitely been achievers in various walks of society and different professions with the roots being this tiny former agrarian village farmhouse in Barkur. Dinner was at Mr Peter.D'souza's residence and should say that thank's to Mr Martin.Furtado's extravagance and Mr Peter.D'Souza's local expertise that we got to taste the best of food during our stay at the farmhouse. On returning back home to the Furtado farmhouse got my luggage packed onto the bike.
On Monday(6/5/2019) left "FURTADO FARMHOUSE" in Barkur at 0500 hrs for the 900 Kms + journey to Mumbai with a planned stop-over at Goa.Everyone including entire Barkur village was asleep when my "Bullet 350" started with its signature thumping and gradually cruised onto Highway NH66 in the darkness of dawn.
Monday(6/5/2019) MOTORCYCLING 280 Kms FROM BARKUR IN STATE OF KARNATAKA TO MARGAO IN GOA. :- Left Barkur Farmhouse at 0500 hrs and at dawn reached the scenic Maravanthe beach.
At 0700 hrs breakfast at a Dhaba on Honnavar Highway
Breakfast was at a highway stall near Honnavar.Came across a dead dog on the highway, victims of highway traffic. At times cattle walk leisurely on the highway and i had to brake on one occasion to avoid banging into a calf.
At 0915 hrs reached Karwar and had a walk along Karwar beach which was lined with fishing boats.and a few fishermen mending their nylon nets."Karwar Port" can be seen in the background of this photo and was nostalgic of my decades of sea sailing on various different types of ships.
Finally in State of Goa entering "Loliem-Polem" village
On reaching Karwar stopped my bike and walked across to the beach. Karwar is a commercial shipping port as well as a major naval base on the West coast of India.From Karwar it was a long drive to Margao and finally at 1130 hrs was home in Margao on the first leg of my "Barkur-Mumbai" bike ride.Checked into the dormitory lodge of "Mohini Hotel" situated in the vicinity of Margao market near Old Station road.Was hungry and exhausted and after quenching my thirst with a beer bottle inquired about local Goan cuisine and was directed to "Longuinhos restaurant & Confectionery" situated in close proximity to the market.Lunch was a princely Goa sausage roll,,Beef steak,bread and Lassi, the costliest lunch or dinner of the travel tour.Returned back to the hotel and relaxed for some time .Later in the evening strolled around the crowded vicinity also visiting the market.
Reached Margao at 1130 hrs .On my Rs 200/Night dormitory bed on the ground floor of "Mohini Hotel" at Old Station Road in Margao. Experiencing the lifestyle of a motorcycle drifter.Old Station road situated on the west side of Margao railway station has numerous hostels and hotels .Mohini Hotel had A/c as well as non A/C single and double room accommodation. The Dormitories situated on the ground floor were the cheapest .During my travels across the Globe and India i have lived in 5-3 and 2 Star hotels ,palatial Farmhouses as also in the cheapest dormitory hostels and hotels. "Mohini Hotel" dormitory was infested with mosquito's but otherwise excellent for the rental. Travel has taught me to adjust to circumstances and situations. In travel the thrill is in experiencing and living the journey and not the final destination, although its the final destination to which we all travel..
The night was horrible due to mosquito's , one of the worst i experienced in recent decades of cheap hostel/hotel accommodation. Otherwise the accommodation was excellent for the rental charged .Since it was tourist off-season all the hostel beds were vacant and i was the only tourist in this luxurious palatial mosquito infested dormitory accommodation.Bizarre and hilarious.
Crowded "Old Station Road" of Margao.The Municipal markets are on this road and hence the early morning crowd of hawkers .Madgao railway station is walking distance along this narrow crowded road of Madgao. This locality is also one of the filthiest in beautiful Margao city as are most market localities in India.
Tuesday(7/5/2019) Margao :- A early morning stroll along crowded and narrow "Old Station Road" which is the locale of Margao Municipal market.Came across a ghastly sight of a lady falling off from the backseat of a scooter.Miraculously she didn't suffer severe damage and seems to have fallen due to giddiness while her husband was driving the scooter.
A glimpse of a few of the palatial wealthy Portuguese era mansions in Margao.
A small crowd including me gathered round the couple and she managed to walk into a auto-rickshaw to be taken to a hospital for examination.Luckily there was no vehicle behind the scooter as it was early morning and this part of Margao is the main traffic junction at peak hours.Breakfast was at heritage "Bharat Cafe" built in 1935 and tastefully renovated recently with modern artwork and a bust of Mahatma.Gandhi. Margao Old Market locality is dirty and congested as also having some old Portuguese era buildings
The crumbling 150 year old Portuguese era house of the "Father of Konkani Tiatr ( Theatre) " Joao .Agostinho.Fernandes at Modsai in Margao. Joao. Agostinho.Fernandes has been honoured with the title of "Pai Tiatrist(Father of Theatre)" by the State Govt of Goa and after whom the main auditorium hall at Ravindra Bhavan in Margao is named. Sadly his relatives now residing in this heritage house cannot afford the repairs and maintenance of the building and the same as seen in the photo is in gradual decay Thanks to social activist and free lance blogger Mr Godfrey.J.I.Gonsalves who knows the family personally that i got entry into this historic crumbling house as also to view the awards and literature on Joao.Agostinho.Fernandes and his spouse Regina.Fernandes who was also a actress in the World of Goan Tiatr(Theatre).With real estate prices zooming in Goa this house would have been redeveloped into a palatial modern building or resort had it not been for a few activists like Mr Godfrey.J.I.Gonsalves who created awareness for preserving the house of the father of Konkani Tiatr. The Government of Goa has declared this house as a "Heritage Monument" and hope it is internally repaired while preserving its main 150 year old external structure.Tremendous tourist revenue could be generated by exhibiting such houses as living museums. I myself would have paid a entrance fee to visit this house and get a glimpse of the residence of the founder of Tiatr in Goa..
With Mr Godfrey.Gonsalves in historic house of "Pai Tiatr".
Later just rode my bike randomly around the main city circle towards Holy Spirit church and came across some old Portuguese era bungalows .Stopped my bike in the vicinity and just strolled aimlessly wandering and admiring the architecture of these beautiful palatial bungalows. A gentleman on a scooter stopped besides me and i was lucky to have a chance meeting with socialist activist writer and tiatrist Mr Godfrey.J.I.Gonsalves. He explained me the heritage importance of this locality in Margao and showed me the heritage house of Goan musician,composer,songwriter and film producer Mr Chris.Perry who was a gifted trumpeter and also the person responsible for launching the singing career of Lorna.Cordeiro, called the nightingale of Goa.
A visit to the "PAI TIATRIST JOAO AUGOSTINHO FERNANDES AUDITORIUM " in "RAVINDRA BHAVAN" at Fatorda in Margao. A view of the World class auditorium from the "Judges" seating accommodation .This is Goa's equivalent to N.C.P.A in Mumbai or Siri Fort in Delhi.Numerous cultural and theatrical events are held at the "Ravindra Bhavan" and during our visit the "India 2019 Hip-Hop Dance Championship" competition was being held in the evenings.
A ride and a dip at "COLVA BEACH".
He later took me to the house of Joao. Agostinho.Fernandes who has been honoured with the title of "Pai Tiatrist(Father of Theatre)" and after whom the main auditorium hall at Ravindra Bhavan is named.We later visited "Ravindra Bhavan" , the largest theatre auditorium building in Goa.Next had lunch at "Longuinhos bar & restaurant" after which i went to the hotel and changed into swim gear for a ride to Kolva beach.The walking overhead footbridge connecting the east to the west of Madgao railway station has been converted into a narrow pathway road for light vehicles and decided to use this footbridge for riding to Kolva beach.The ascent of the steep incline of the former footbridge from Old Station road with my heavy duty "Bullet 350" was akin to the Wallenda brothers doing a trapeze walk between two skyscraper buildings and heaved a sigh of relief on reaching the other side of Madgaon railway station.From there it was a straight drive towards Kolva beach.With a daily routine of swimming 2 Kms daily in Mumbai at the "M.G.M.O" pool and now having snorkeled across various locations in the Sitanadi river in Barkur and Mabukala decided to visit Colva beach as a formality. Visiting Goa and not having a sea dip on any of its beaches was akin to visiting the Maldives and returning without snorkeling or diving. Kolva beach was crowded and it was absolutely high tide with the waves lashing onto the beach making swimming impossible.After just a dip in the sea rode back to the hotel in the blazing hot Sun.Visited Margao Municipal market and purchased my favourite "Goa Sausages".
Landmark "Margao Municipal Council Building" which has 19 arcs spanning the length of this historic Portuguese era building. built in 1905.
Later in the evening decided to stroll around the vicinity of main Margao city town centre whose landmarks are the "Margao Municipal Council" building the large spacious Municipal Gardens and Aga Khan's children's park .
"Costa/Antao House N0 30":- V.V.I.P Address in Margao.
For once decided to walk the distance rather than using my heavy duty motorcycle as a cycle.On reaching the town centre which was a short walk from Mohni Hotel inquired for directions to "Holy Spirit Church".On my way towards "Holy Spirit Church" came across palatial Portuguese era mansions and on "Abade Faria Road" stumbled across the 200 year mansion of the descendants of the present Prime Minister of Portugal Mr Antonio.Costa. Outside the door of this common looking plush mansion situated on a street that is lined with larger palatial Old World excellently maintained Portuguese era mansions was the name " COSTA /ANTAO HOUSE N0 130". The name on the house door made this particular house a stand out on plush "Abade Faria Road" that i would nickname "Portuguese Mansions boulevard" as this is the house of Anna.Karina.Costa , the cousin of Prime Minister Antonio.Costa whom he visited during his India visit in 2017.
Historic "Holy Spirit Church" in Margao
From plush "Abade Faria Road" it was a long straight walk towards the towering white washed "Holy Spirit Church" building.This church was closed to the public but managed to get a glimpse of the interior of the church as some guests had just visited the church with a priest who allowed me to visit the church.The interior religious decor of the church brought back memories of the palatial churches of Europe .This church which was originally built over a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Damodar has been in its present existence since 1675 .The huge cross inside the church dates back to the 17th century.During the Portuguese era this locality was called "Church Square(Largo De Igrega)" and was the centre of Margao. From Holy Spirit Church walked back towards city centre and visited the church of "Our Lady of Grace" situated right in the town centre . Although i am not a Atheist like one of my hero's Mr Richard.Branson but also a not very devout practicing Catholic should say i have definitely lived a charmed life defying death and financial insolvency situations on numerous occasions .Yes,truth is stranger than fiction.This makes me believe that our lives are destined or have a supreme force controlling the same which to most of the religious means a God.
A walk down "Abade Faria Road" in Margao with its plush well maintained Portuguese era colonial architectural palatial houses."Vista De Avenida" was the largest bungalow in the vicinity.One could name "Abade Faria Road" of Margao as "Margao Heritage boulevard". If visiting Margao don't miss a leisurely walk down this iconic road lined with plush well maintained Portuguese era style palatial bungalows.
Duty free drinks is one of Goa's charms.
.At the age of 59 years its no joke riding a 180 Kg motorcycle from Mumbai to Barkur and back to Mumbai and there was definitely some divine force that favoured my extreme monetary and sports adventures although Sir Richard.Branson would beg to differ on my opinion.Hotel Mohini had both A/c and Non-A/c room accommodation but the Rs 200/day common dormitory room on the ground floor was infested with mosquito's and was my way of "Penance(Tapasya)" for compensating the normal luxurious life i live in Mumbai.After a drink of beer did have a almost sleepless mosquito bites night and was hoping that the second leg of the ride from Goa to Mumbai would be a success.I had slept for less than 2 hrs and thanked my rigorous shipping employment decades for making me accustomed to performing work with minimum rest.We sailors are a breed apart.
Wednesday(8/5/2019) MARGAO TO MUMBAI :- At 0500 hrs packed the iconic "Bullet 350 Standard" motorcycle backseat with my luggage and at 0530 hrs began my ride from Goa to Mumbai.
Packed up and ready to drive away from "Hotel Mohini, Margao" to Mumbai.At 0530 hrs left Hotel Mohini. A mistake in the time setting of the camera shows the time 0622 hrs but is actually 0522 hrs.In the following photo's until reaching Mumbai the time factor in the photo's has to be corrected by a hour.
The Pictorial essay of this ride is as follows.
At 0752 hrs reached the town of Kudal .
On reaching the town of Kudal in the Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra had my first rest stop at Manjunath Kripa restaurant, one of the oldest restaurants in the town.Breakfast was "Missal/Paav", a common Maharashtrian dish . Kudal lies on the Konkan Railway zone and the railway station was in close proximity to the main town.
At 0945 hrs in Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra refreshing myself with lime juice before beginning one of the steepest climbs up the KARUL GHAT to finally reach Gagan Bawda situated at a elevation of 2000 ft above sea level from where i am sipping lime juice.CALM BEFORE THE STEEP SOLO CLIMB !
Ahoy ! Finally at 1050 hrs the "Bullet 350 Black BS IV" and myself reached Gagan Bawda hill station. The ride up 2000 ft from Sindhudurg Coast tested my patience and riding skills . The view from Gagan Bawda "Viewpoint" where i am standing was amazing and this locale is a popular hill station for tourists from Kolhapur, Sangli,Sindhudurg and Belagavi.The weather was pleasant and col in comparison to coastal Sindhudurg from where i began my ascent to the top. Kolhapur city is 55 Kms from this Viewpoint.
At 1430 hrs stopped at Visawa Park in Satara on the NH4 (Bangalore- Pune ) Highway. A very late lunch of "Crab curry thali" at Baithak Restaurant .The crabs were stale but i was hungry and the curry was excellent.
At 1815 hrs was at "LONAVALA BUS TERMINUS".Had some rest and gulped water.Purchased a packet of the famous "Lonavala Maganlal Chikki". I was the lone motorcycle rider in the vicinity and envied the bus passengers being driven to their destination while i was riding towards my destination.Ultra long distance "Bare Back Motorcycling" is a tough extreme adventure sport and my physical fitness discipline as well as mental resolution helped me reach the finishing post of this grueling ride.
Riding down the "Bhor Ghat" .Last rest-stop at 1845 hrs was at "SUNSET POINT" in Khandala.There was a large holiday crowd and got to view the Sunset before finally riding home after the Sunset. Finally reached home at 2130 hrs .The entire journey from Margao to Prabhadevi in Mumbai took me a total of 16 hrs as i had stopped for longer duration's during the rest stops. The Odometer of my "Bullet 350 Black BS IV" showed me that i had travelled over 2000 Kms in 11 day's.A big thanks to the help in direction finding that i received from locals . Have i set a new benchmark for the fact that "AGE IS JUST A NUMERICAL NUMBER" ? My MotoGP hero Valentino.Rossi would definitely be amazed at my achievement and hope after retiring from "MotoGP" he becomes a hobbyist sailor and takes up the task of circumnavigating the Globe in his own private yacht .
On reaching the town of Kudal in the Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra had my first rest stop at Manjunath Kripa restaurant, one of the oldest restaurants in the town.Breakfast was "Missal/Paav", a common Maharashtrian dish . Kudal lies on the Konkan Railway zone and the railway station was in close proximity to the main town.
