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Start of the 350 Kms ride to Shetpal village from "Vaibhav Apartments" on Old Prabhadevi road to investigate the myth of " Village of snakes".
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The closure of International travel as well as local travel and curiosity for the unexplored tourist path made me do this 350 Kms ride from Mumbai to Shetpal(Shetphal) and back in a span of 2 days with a day's stop-over in Pune.Strangely and bizzarely snakes have always fascinated me and their mindless persecution also troubled me as a few species could face extinction if blindly killed on sight by one and sundry.Snakes are a natural
"BALANCE OF NATURAL POWER" in the wild and control the population explosion of rodents that destroy crops and granaries.Snakes attack and bite humans only when threatened or accidentally stepped upon and hence sadly the cause of numerous deaths in India and many parts of the Globe.This is the main reason that the serpent is feared and killed although majority are harmless and non-poisonous.In the 1990's while employed in the shipping Industry had visited the Romulus.Whitaker founded "Madras Crocodile Bank Trust and snake park ", a reptile zoo about 40 Kms from Chennai and witnessed the "Milking" of venom by the Irula tribesmen at the herpetology center of the zoo.Later got myself a "COBRA TATTOO"on my back during a rock music Jamborie at once upon a time Mumbai's iconic "Razzberry Rhinocerous" nightclub in Juhu.Recently browsing through the Internet stumbled upon unheard "Shetpal(Shetphal)" village that is considered the only village in India and the World where the local villagers literally live with snakes inside their house.True or False or just expansion of "INTERNET FAKE NEWS" that must have occured decades ago . Your's truly "Sherlock Holmes" decided to ride to Shetpal village and see first hand if the numerous articles of this particular village was true or mere exaggeration. On Tuesday(15/12/2020) left my house in Old Prabhadevi road at 0530 hrs for the long perilious and treacherous 350 Kms road journey.
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Outside landmark "KYANI BAKERY" in Pune .
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The weather was excellent and cool with Mumbai having experienced freak non-seasonal December rainfall the previous day. This route was now familiar to me although on my previous solo ride's to Goa and Mangalore had taken the bye-pass diversion "Pune - Satara" highway situated after passing Lonavala .Finally riding past the "Pune-Satara" bye-pass highway after a long ride at approximately 0900 hrs reached Pune City. Was amazed at the sight of the Pune traffic with cycles totally absent in a city that a few decades ago was the cycling capital of the State of Maharashtra. Today in 2020 motorized 2-wheelers have taken over the streets from cycles as "CYCLING LANES" are non-existant .Riding a cycle in such traffic was a invitation to a accident to happen. Change is permanent . I had last visited Pune in 2004 for the Poonawaala Million horse Race" riding my "Bajaj Wind-125 cc" bike but instead of attending the race had to get myself admitted into the "Inlaks and Budhrani hospital" at Koregaon park for a dislocated shoulder suffered during a fall while riding up the Khandala Ghats.My hat-trick of motorcycle accident's as recent as February 2020 is a study in a never say die attitude of motorcycle riders all across the Globe.Finally on entering the city and inquiring about the "Pune-Sholapur Highway" reached Pune Camp area and parked outside landmark "Kayani" bakery.Entered "Kayani" and inquired directions to the "Pune-Sholapur Highway" also purchasing a traditional "Mava Cake" as a snack.From "Kayani Bakery" it was a straight ride in heavy morning Pune traffic onto the main "Pune-Sholapur Highway". Ahoy !
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Photo shoot for "MOTO GP PUNE-SHOLAPUR" ride ?
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At approximately 1045 hrs entered the "Pune-Sholapur Expressway" and began my 190 Kms ride to Shetpal(Shetphal) village.Having previously ridden on the "Pune-Satara Expressway" presumed that was one of the best highway's in India until i discovered this "Pune-Sholapur Expressway" that replicated a "Moto Gp" race track.Excellent riding at times testing the 105 Km/Hr speed limit of the World's longest produced motorcycle model.What me worry ? Not when you have confidence in yourself and your mind absolutely alert as a slight mistake could mean hospitalization or at worst death in doing something you loved best.That's life.Strangely i didn't spot any "SUPER BIKES" on the highway with my "Royal Enfield - Bullet 350 Black Bs IV " being the superbike of the highway. Presume that this route was not as popular as the "Pune-Satara" route beside's it was a week day and the young biker crowd was either engrossed in employment or business deals with retiree's like your's truly keeping themselves mentally and physically employed through 2-wheeler riding. Ahoy !.
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SIDHESHWAR TEMPLE in Shetpal village .
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On the highway ride stopped at a road side Dhabba and inquired the direction to "Shetpal Village(Shetphal)" through "Google Map" with a local who explained me the approximate distance and location. Finally after crossing a long highway overhead bridge reached the tiny village of Shetpal(Shetphal).Parked my bike at the entrance to the village and enquired about snakes with a few locals gathered in a corner .Was saddened and shocked when told that no such village house existed where snakes had a special dwelling called "Devasthanam".In fact snakes were rescued from houses and let lose in the surrounding countryside.Another handicap with me is that beside's English , Hindi and mother tongue Konkani i am poor in speaking languages although perfectluy understand most regional Indian languages. Some people have a talent for languages which includes my house care-taker Sabina-Dias fluent in even Arabic having been employed in the Middle East country's ! In the villages of India its the local regional language that rules and hence in the State of Maharashtra its Marathi that is the numero uno language.That i had arrived at the right Shetpal village was confirmed as the landmark "Sidheshwar Temple" was located in this tiny village.Later a local guided me to the main chowk locality of the village where a local was in the hobby of catching and releasing snakes.
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"PROFESSIONAL SNAKE CATCHER" Shri Pravin.Shendage
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Shri Pravin.Shendage posing with his "SNAKE CATCHING STICK".If wanting to contact him his phone nos is : 9799132881.Wish tourists better luck in spotting the elusive snakes of Shetpal village.
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Investigative Author Rudolph.A.Furtado of the "SHETPAL :- VILLAGE OF SNAKES IN INDIA " with a "SNAKE CATCHING STICK" for the camera akin to a actor..
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A young boy rode on my pillion and guided me to the hotel "Sangmeshwar Beer bar and Permit room" situated below the main highway bridge in Shetpal Chowk.He introduced me to Shri Pravin.Shendage, a employee in this restaurant and on explaining him my purpose he was amused and told me that many foreigners also visited this place in search of the so called house dwelling poisonous snakes.This was a massive media fraud as no villager kept snakes in their house or fabricated a "Devasthanam(Snake Nest) " for the snakes to dwell in their house.He himself had the hobby of catching poisonous snakes seen inside the village dwellings and releasing them in the surrounding forest.Even a few local customers in the restaurant were confused when i tried to explain them the uniqueness of Shetpal(Shetphal) village in India. One of them told me that there were a few other villages of the same name in nearby districts but they were unaware of any of the villagers living with snakes in their midst. Finally convinced that i had solved a great media mystery scam decided to have lunch at "Sangmeshwar Beer bar and restaurant".
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Excellent "Fish curry/Paratha/Rice" lunch in "Sangmeshwar Beer Bar and Permit Room"
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Shri Pravin.Shendage worked as a steward at "Sangmeshwar beer bar and Permit room" and hence he guided me on the lunch menu in compensation of demonstrating snake catching or a village house having a "Snake Devasthanam".Lunch was excellent fresh water fried fish served with curry and parathas. Although totally disappointed on not seeing a snake or neither sure if Shetpal was the actual village mentioned in numerous blogs was at least thrilled with the sumptuous lunch.Checked my smartphone and thanks to "Facebook" and "Whatsapp" was surprized to receive a missed call from fellow Mazdock Alumni Marine Engineer batchmate Mr Sanjeev.Ogale a former "Chief Engineer" , now a Engineering businessman/social worker based in Pune. Mazdock Alumni Chief Engineer Mr Sreedhar Krishnan living in Pune also contacted me and i told them that before departure from Pune i would meet them the next day.After lunch thanked Shri Pravin.Shendage and rode the short distance back to Shetpal village to visit the Sidheshwar temple.
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Main inner sanctum of the SIDHESHWAR TEMPLE
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.Parked my motorcycle outside the temple and after removing my footwear entered the large compound of the temple inner sanctum.Reminded me of the Buddhist temples which are open air .A priest along with two other men were seated outside the main small temple complex as seen in the photo.Language was a barrier and he explained me in Marathi about the importance of this temple in the curing of snake bites.If any villager was bitten by a snake then he would have to be brought to this temple within half an hour of being bitten and made to sit on the small white limestone bench outside this small temple facing the main deity of the temple.The main idol inside the temple is a copper image of a 7 headed cobra over a Shiva idol.He told me that many villagers were cured but also admitted that he didn't know of any of the villager's keeping snakes akin to domestic pets inside their houses.How could reputed Indian media publications like "India Today" and "Times of India" be wrong about Shetpal(Shetphal) village ? I was definitely not in the wrong village.Confused i thanked the temple priest and headed out of the temple.
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| Nomadic Village tribals travelling with their pony's and household items including livestock. |
At 1445 hrs finally decided to bid adieu to so called "VILLAGE OF SNAKES :- SHETPAL" and headed towards Pune.On the way at Chowk came across this familiar site among the hill tribes of Maharashtra.One of the pony's carried a luggage consisting of a young male child, a dog and a sheep. Unique sight for sophisticated metropolitan Indians but a common way of living to some of these nomad village tribals. Travel educates.
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Refuelling at a highway petrol pump on my way to Pune.
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It was a long 190 Kms ride from "Village of Snakes:- Shetpal" to Pune City and thankfully riding on the "Sholapur-Pune Expressway" compensated my disappointment of not seeing a snake in the so called "village of snakes " of India .Seems the snakes in Shetpal village were scared of my "King Cobra" tattoo on the back and hence didn't show up ,absolutely afraid of becoming a meal themselves. Ahoy ! Cruised along the highway averaging 80-90 Kms as also testing the 105 Km/hr max practicable riding limit of the oldest motorcycle in continuous production on Planet Earth .Now i realized the reason for the "Bullet 350" surviving decades of motorcycle competitors , motorcycle fashion trends and upgradation to new models within its own "Royal Enfield Motorcycle Stable" for the simple reason that it was
"BUILT LIKE A BULLET". A authentic trademark advertisement that lived to its reputation. Durability on some of the worst roads in the World combined with "Old World vintage looks" was reason for the "BULLET 350" survival. Looks of a rugged work horse rather than a race horse.Along the highway there were numerous hawkers selling large guava's and at Indapur road purchased two guava's weighing a Kilo each. Total heavyweight fruits akin to the "Bullet 350" bike.Finally at 1800 hrs entered Pune city and weaved through its horrible congested and unruly city traffic.
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Pune Racecourse where the "Bombay Racing season" is in progress without spectators due to "COVID-19 "social distancing regulations.Notice the DATES of the "RACING FIXTURES" at different "RACING VENUES" in India.
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.On entering Pune city headed towards Camp and enroute passed alongside the "Y.M.C.A" stopping and inquiring for accomodation.Seems they have stopped accomodation and he guided me towards Pune train station, the Mecca of good lodges in Pune.Destiny couldn't be more bizarre for searching for directions to M.G road came across my home away from home upto 2016, the Pune racecourse.In fact it was in 2004 that i had last personally ridden to Pune the first time in my life to attend the "Poonawalla Million Race" and the rest as they say was hospitalization history.Saw the sign board outside the racecourse advertising the racing programmes at various racing centres in Mumbai.For the first time in India "On-LINE Racecourse" betting was allowed as punters couldn't personally attend races and i only hope the much awaited "SPORTS BETTING" of which i am a ardent canvasser is legalized soon.Finally with great difficulty and after much inquiry reached destination Pune Station.Was amazed on seeing a row of Bungalow style lodges and checked into "Central Lodge" and not "Central Prison".For a price of Rs700/night and Rs 700 deposit was allotted a single room with a common bathe and toilet.Checked into Room No 21 of the ground floor of this splendid former Bungalow named "Motilal Mansion" built in 1940, pre-independence colonial architecture.A very clean single room with two beds and a fan.I have now lost count of the hotels, lodges , hostels and camps that i have lived during my travels to 81 country's and almost entire India. The Nomad was perfectly at home in chawl style living in "Central Lodge" of Pune.Read some "WhatsApp" messages and rang up Sreedhar.Krishnan who confirmed that Mr Sanjeev .Ogale would arrange a small "Breakfast Get-together" the next morning.Dinner was 2 glasses of "Lassi(Sweet curd milkshake)" at Pune's most famous street side lassi shop " SHIV KAILASH" situated opposite the Pune railway station.The Insomniac spent a almost sleepless night.
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Taste the classic "MALAI LASSI" at "Shiv Kailash" restaurant opposite Pune Station.A landmark restaurant for ice-cream and dairy products.
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A view of aristocratic "CENTRAL LODGE" near Pune railway station..
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Early at dawn walked out of the lodge onto the busy side-street facing Pune bus depot and had a cup of tea from the roadside tea seller. Memories of the simplicity of life and living of the average common man .After tea headed back to the lodge and had a hot water bathe, the most amazing luxury of "Central Lodge".At times the living in budget lodges makes me realize my own luxurious living at home in Mumbai which i normally take for granted. "HOT WATER" bathe in excellent "CENTRAL LODGE" was availaible only in the morning between a certain time frame that began at 0700 hrs .After the refreshing bathe checked my phone and rang up Mr Sreedhar.Krishnan who informed me that Sanjeev.Ogale was arranging a breakfast rendezvous.Finally contacting Sanjeev on the phone the rendezvous at "CAFE DIAMOND QUEEN" restaurant on "Camp Road" was arranged for 0900 hrs. At 0830 Checked out of "Central Lodge" and rode my bike in the early morning traffic stopping on the way asking directions to " Cafe Diamond Queen" on Camp road.Finally arrived at the landmark "Dr Ambedkar Statue" on Camp road from which "Cafe Diamond Queen" was just walking distance.As usual i was the earliast and after parking my bike outside "Cafe Diamond Queen" just strolled aimlessly in the vicinity.
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Landmark "Cafe Diamond Queen"
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Standing outside "Cafe Diamond Queen" suddenly saw a plush "Range Rover" car pass alongside with the driver calling out my name and realized that Mr Sreedhar.Krishna had arrived for the breakfast get-together. Chief Engineer Mr Sreedhar Krishna was 5 years my junior in "Mazagon Dock Ltd Marine Engineer Apprenticeship course" and hence knew him only through "WhatsApp" messages since he is a avid biker akin to childhood buddy Mr Biju.Karian.They both owned a stable of expensive "Super bikes" .He had spent a lifetime in Chembur locality before relocating permanantly in Pune along with his family.One fact about Mariners is that we are one of the most cosmopolitan tribe in the World and easily mix around with strangers, aquaintainces or friends.Employment in the "SHIPPING INDUSTRY" irrespective of rank involves working and intermingling with different nationalities and now even women of different nationalities. We quickly got to know each other went to the top floor section of the restaurant as the main ground floor was packed with customers, beside's "COVID-19" table social distancing meant less clients.Sreedhar and myself got to know each other and after a few minutes Sanjeev arrived on the scene.
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"Mutton Kheema/Broon Paav/Omellette/tea" at " Diamond Queen".
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Sanjeev.Ogale and myself were in the same "Marine Engineers Apprenticeship course" batch of 1978-1982 and have some wonderful "PICNIC MEMORIES" of our apprenticeship years. Sanjeev and many of my batchmates were "Naval Officer's" children staying in Navy Nagar in Colaba and "Picnics" of our group was never without the traditional armed forces canteen drink of "Old Monk Rum".Well so much for the care-free and studious living of apprenticeship years which later led to employment in the "Merchant Navy" and the rest of what we are today.Mr Sanjeev.Ogale was a pinoeer in entrepreneurship quitting sailing after reaching the rank of "Chief Engineer" and starting his own successful business ashore.Commendable for a entrepreneur from a non-business family background. Today in 2020 he is involved in a few business ventures besides being doing social work among the locals.Sanjeev's daughter is also a pioneer like her father being one of the first lady "Marine Engineers" in the profession, once a total male domain.She is sailing on board ship's as a engineer and is also a active long distance motorcycle rider.As for Mr Sreedhar.Krishnan very much junior to us is directly involved in the "Merchant Navy" presently sailing as "Chief Engineer" on ships, a elite "Marine Engineer" of the "Mazagon Dock Marine Engineers Alumni".He is also passionaite about motorcycles and rides along with his son.We "MERCHANT NAVY" folks are definitely a unique breed among the working class.Today elite "Merchant Navy Officers" in the senior ranks are in the top bracket of Indian working class in terms of emoluments as well as perks although a very tough and responsible designation.Breakfast was a lavish "Mutton Kheema/Broon Paav/Omellette/tea" .
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A visit to landmark "Kayani Bakery" which is famous for its "SHREWSBURY" and "GINGER" biscuits.
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From "Cafe Diamond Queen" it was a short walk to another landmark eatery "Kayani Bakery" which is famous for its "SHREWSBURY" and "GINGER" biscuits .The biscuits are prepared from pure Amul butter and a trade secret with a unexplainable mystique to its popularity. A very ordinary looking Irani style bakery which was decorated in the Christmas festive decor. At 1000 hrs there was a long queue outside the bakery and seems that the day's quoto of fresh prepared biscuits are sold within a few hours.Sreedhar and myself purchased "Shresbury" and "Ginger" biscuits while Sanjeev just accompanied us .I normally never eat biscuits but would definitely not leave Pune without purchasing its trade mark biscuits that is a household name even in Mumbai. Ahoy ! After the purchase walked back to " Cafe Diamond Queen" where our vehicles were parked.Bid Sreedhar goodbye who drove away in his palatial "Range Rover". Sanjeev helped me strap my "Biscuit Package" onto the luggage carrier and the typical businessman thinker used the "Horses for courses" mode of transport showing me the way on his scooter towards the "Pune-Mumbai NH4" highway.In Pune's traffic a light vehicle two wheeler is the best mode of transport and still preferable would be a cycle which is sadly impractical in the dangerous city traffic.How bizarre and wierd life can be over the decades. A city once famed as the "CYCLE CAPITAL" of Maharashtra in the year 2020 has almost abolished leisure cycling from its main road arteries. Hope the same is reversed in the future as the advantages of cycling is realized by the common masses.
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Approaching Lonavala on the ride to Mumbai.
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After Sanjeev took a detour towards his home i almost lost my way in the maze of flyovers and Pune's traffic.Took directions from a traffic constable but again got confused at a flyover junction and finally with great difficulty made my way onto the main route leading to "NH4 HIGHWAY".Once on the main highway road it was a pleasant ride finally at approximately 1200 hrs reaching Lonavala .Had a rest stop at Lonavala to purchase its famed "Maganlal Chikki" and ""Choco Walnut Fudge".From Lonavala it was the normal downhill ride with a absence of the normal tourist crowd as it was a week-day .The direction indicators on the highway is confusing and almost made the mistake of driving on the main "Pune-Mumbai Expressway" along with a rickshaw with both of us realizing our mistake and reversing back to the old "NH4" highway. Ahoy !
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Khandala Lake.
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On riding towards Khadala stopped at Khandala lake and refreshed myself with fresh sugarcane juice.A few tourists were boating on the lake refreshing memories of sailing on the high and low seas in a Merchant Navy career spanning 23 years.
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A stop at landmark "SHINGROBA MANDIR" .
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My last stop on the Old "Khandala NH4 Ghat" highway was at the landmark "SHINGROBA MANDIR". The "Shingroba Temple" was built in 1929 and is on the main highway route between Khandala and Khopoli.Shingroba was a shepherd who helped travellers cross the Bhor Ghat and became a legend with this temple dedicated to him.Most vehicle drivers that begin their ascent or descent through the Bhor Ghat stop for a second to pay homage and offer alms at the temple for a safe journey in negotiating the treacherous winding curves of the Old "NH4 Highway".For the first time in my life stopped at this iconic landmark temple , myself ,a unbelievable survivor of 3 motorcycle accidents and the partial eyesight loss of the left eye in another freak accident.In hindsight destiny had been kind to me in allowing me to reach the official retirement age of 60 years.
Ahoy !
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"SAI TRAVELS BUS" ACCIDENT .
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Finally reached the base of the "Bhor Ghat" which is Khopoli.From Khopoli it was a nice long drive on a short World class "Moto GP" highway towards Panvel.Later was onto the "Panvel-Kalamboli-Sion Expressway" which was another excellent ride.While passing through Kharghar saw this "SAI TRAVELS BUS" in the ditch below. Took a few photographs and proceeded home hoping that no one was seriously injured in this accident.Finally reached home at 1530 hrs .Had ridden 700 Kms + in a span of 2 day's that made me feel mentally and physically younger.Read the next day's "Times of India(Thursday 17/12/2020)" news and was not surprized to find the accident photograph in the news. Seems the tyre of the bus carrying 30 passengers from Pune to Mumbai had burst and hence the bus veered off the highway onto the ditch injuring 4 passengers. A miraculous escape having witnessed the crash site personally.Ahoy.
