Sunday(21/7/2019) :- Riding 200 Kms from Mumbai and finally at the gate of "Udvada Atash Behram Town".
Khaniwade Toll Plaza on NH8 Highway.
As i am "Self-Employed" and working from home(Office) in Mumbai my " Bullet 350 Black BS IV" gets less mileage than my cycle ! The bike was purchased only for the purpose of "Marathon Cruising" across Indian City's. Decided to do a "Monsoon Ride" to Udvada and Silvassa as the rains had subsided making motorcycling less off a extreme adventure sport.
Having visited religious sites of all communities across the Globe let alone India it suddenly struck me that i had not visited "Atash Behram Udvada " situated in close proximity to Mumbai. Besides i have had a long association with the Parsi community beginning from childhood friends in Mombasa and later Bombay to earning my bread and butter through investments in Parsi ownership companies as a self-employed Investor. Udvada Town situated in the State of Gujarat is World renowned for its Zoroastrian Iranshah Atash Behram, the oldest continuously burning fire temple in the World sacred to the Parsi(Indian Zoroastrian) community of India. Udvada means "grazing ground of camels" and the Udvada Atash Behram town is approximately 200 Kms from Mumbai driving along National Highway "NH 8".
On Highway "NH 8" on the drive to Udvada.
Silvassa is the capital of the Union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli in India and a tribal region with major Industrial production. Liquor is also exempt from taxes and hence cheaper in comparison to other States of India.While driving from Mumbai on "NH8" highway the distance to Silvassa is approximately 175 Kms .
On Sunday(21/7/2019) at 0545 hrs after packing my rain-gear equipment and accessories into the bike back-seat storage dicky and wearing a rain jacket began my marathon 200 Kms ride to Udvada. The weather God's were in my favour as there was not a drizzle let alone pouring rain which flooded Mumbai just two weeks ago.
Jehangir Wadia Road:- Road leading to Atash Behram
The city roads topography on the Western Express highway upto Dahisar toll Naka was a sight of skyscraper buildings and slow due to road construction work .After crossing Dahisar it was akin to immediately being transformed into a different natural World with the Monsoon rain magic making the mountainous Sahyadri mountain range (Western Ghats) absolutely green and brimming with natural life.This was the main reason i opted for a "Monsoon ride" although dangerous as i wanted to experience the Sahyadri countryside at its natural best , something i missed after retiring from hill-fort "Group Monsoon treks" in the Sahyadri mountains.Riding on the "NH8" highway was on par with the best in the World and i was literally 'CRUISING" at a constant speed enjoying nature and the fact that it was a cloudy non-rainy day.Had numerous large "Container Trucks" as vehicle companions while cruising on the classic highway .Born to Ride !
Road to "Atash Behram Udvadia" Town,
Excellent conditions for long distance motorcycling where the hot sun's ray's during peak summer can make riding a torturous adventure sport. For the first time i clocked 100 ++ Kms on my "Bullet" and was passed over by a group of Superbike riders somewhere along the route.I rode non-stop with the occasional break being for relieving my urinary bladder and finally at approximately 0830 hrs reached main Udvada town bordering "Highway NH 8". ."Atash Behram Udvada" is situated at approximately 11 Kms off main Udvada Town and after some guidance rode off "N H8 " highway into a narrow lane past the Udvada train railway track crossing finally reaching "Jehangir Wadia Road".From "Jehangir Wadia Road" it was a beautiful long straight drive along the Gujarat Countryside of Udvada town devoid of normal vehicular traffic..While riding a rider should be alert of wandering cattle that are least afraid of the occasional two or four wheeler vehicle.Was finally at the main entrance gates of "Atash Behram Udvada Town" constructed in December 2017 .I will now give a pictorial essay of my brief tour of "Atash Behram Udvada" town.
Finally at the Main entrance gates of "Atash Behram Udvada Township" in Udvada.
At 0900 was finally inside the "Udvada Atash Behram Township " and on seeing the "Iranshah Atash Behram" temple from outside was surprised by its simplicity in design unlike most religious edifices.
The Parsi community (Indian Zoroastrians) are the wealthiest community in India and in Mumbai the community have palatial housing estates in prime localities of Mumbai called "BAUGS" .In "Atash Behram Udvada" this "Dastoor Baug" is a subsidized hostel accommodation only for the Parsi community.
The "Iranshah Atash Behram" Fire temple that houses the " Victory Fire(Atash Behram)" burning and worshiped inside the temple since the 8th century.Non- Zoroastrians are not allowed entry into the temple.Very simple and ordinary looking building from the exterior.
"Kheema & Sali per Edu" at "Hotel Ashishvangh"
The weather was excellent, cloudy but no rain. I seemed to be the only Non-Parsi tourist in the entire town and aimlessly strolled in the vicinity of the "Iranshah Atash Behram" admiring the palatial Old World Parsi bungalows in the vicinity of the narrow lanes of this township. A Parsi gentleman Mr Meherwan.K.Parbhoo from Mumbai who had just visited the temple and on his way to his home in the town inquired if i required any guidance and was helpful in guiding me to "Hotel Ashsishvangh" .Breakfast was authentic Parsi cuisine at the palatial "Hotel Ashishvangh" situated in close proximity to the "Iranshah Atash Behram Temple". As it was totally off-season at 0915hrs i was the only customer in the morning and had a personal conversation with the owner Mr Merwan.Godiwalla. As it was Off-season the hotel lodging charges were less.I realized that Merwan was a popular common Parsi name .
Dining room restaurant of "Hotel Ashishvangh" one of the largest and most popular hotels in "Atash Behram Udvada" town. Lodging is expensive during the peak season with a A/c Room costing Rs 2500/person which includes breakfast, lunch and dinner.A Non A/C room costs Rs 2000/person. During Off-Season (Monsoon) the rates are reduced.The most popular Parsi dishes are 1) Kheema 2) Sali per Eddu(2 fried eggs served with thin sliced potatoes) 3) Mutton Dhansak 4) Salli Boti 5) Rasberry Jelly 6) Lagan Nu Custard 7) Sancha ice cream 8) Doodh na Puff. During the fishing season try these fish dishes 1) Fried Boi 2) Machhi Ni Curry. 3) Patio (Fish or prawn based tomato gravy) 4) Tareli Boi (Fried Mullets) 5) Tarela Pappeta na Murghi.
A palatial Bungalow in Atash Behram Udvada town .I was the lone Non-Parsi tourist on this day and the emptiness of the narrow street lanes and absence of humans in the second most populated country on Earth made me feel of being in a different era and time zone on Planet Earth. Most of the Bungalows are empty or have care-takers maintaining the palatial properties. Reminded me of my own parents ancestral villages in Udipi district of Karnataka where the Catholic population is gradually decreasing due to migration and other factors akin to the Parsi's . Large palatial farmhouses are either locked or gradually decay or at worst are usurped by tenants.I was told that this Bungalow is the property of a prominent judge.
A view of the narrow cobblestone lanes and common small bungalow style houses in historic " Atash Behram Udvada Town " where time has stood still over the centuries and decades..
Local hawkers in a street facing the "Iranshah Atash Behram Temple" selling "Papads","Bhakra's" and other local food products to pilgrims .Business seems poor during the Monsoon (Off-season) and i was pestered to purchase a few products.Later they mistook me to be a press reporter !
ZOROASTRIAN MUSEUM AND INFORMATION CENTRE :- On inquiry about the museum rode my bike down the narrow street to the "Globe Hotel" reaching a dead-end and discovering another "Fire Temple" adjacent to this popular hotel. On inquiry at the hotel was directed by a hotel employee to this museum complex situated in close proximity to Udvada beach but quite a distance from the " Iranshah Atash Behram" .There were two large wells inside the museum complex.Entrance is free and I was the lone visitor and felt like a "V.I.P' in this hallowed museum housing the history and various masterpieces of the Zoroastrian religion.All information is in print form akin to reading a text with images and sculpture of prominent personalities of the Zoroastrian faith .The same can be researched on the "Internet" and i personally felt that the services of a guide could be put into use for visitors not conversant with the Parsi community or Zoroastrian religion.A life-size statue of a Zoroastrian priest in front of the "Atash Behram" explains the sanctity and importance of Udvada.The museum is closed on Tuesday's and open from 0900 hrs - 1700 hrs on other days.There is a tourist shop inside the Museum complex selling curio's and memorabilia .
A internal glimpse of a part of the "ZOROASTRIAN MUSEUM AND INFORMATION CENTRE".Basically the museum does not contain much of any original Zoroastrian artifacts besides sculptures and portraits .India's history has numerous towering personalities belonging to the Zoroastrian faith and personal belongings or artifacts of some of these personalities could be displayed for public viewing.As a English music fan "Freddie Mercury(Farrokh .Bulsara)" was instantly recognizable in one of the portraits in another corner of this room but not a single original memento or heirloom from this Zoroastrian singer was displayed in the museum. The same applied to the other historical recognizable portraits in this photo. Had read about occasional housebreaks into some of the empty palatial houses in "Atash Behram Udvada" and i presume that this could be the main reason for not exhibiting original belongings and heirlooms in this museum.
Natural Snack :- Sweet Coconut juice and kernel
After my brief tour of the "Zoroastrian Museum and Information Centre" walked back to "Globe Hotel" where i had parked my motorcycle.Thanked the staff member and mounted my bike and decided to drive towards Udvada beach. The Sun was blazing over Udvada and akin to a "Ripley's Believe it or not" i just couldn't believe that a fortnight ago Mumbai and even this locality of Gujarat had received a heavy downpour of rainfall.Stopped outside the "Fire Temple" where a couple were selling tender coconuts. At a cost of Rs 30/Coconut was refreshed from the blistering heat by the juice of one of the sweetest tiny coconuts and its kernel was even more delicious.It was off-season for local fruits and i presume during summer months some of the tastiest fruits can be eaten on a visit to Udvada. One factor i observed in Udvada was that barring hotel accommodation the prices of eatable items were priced modestly and not inflated due to the location and prominence of the town.There was no direct road leading to the beach and had to park my bike in a by-lane and walk towards the sea face..
This is the modern era "Fire Temple" situated next to the "Globe Hotel".The external architectural design of this Fire temple is clearly visible from outside although Non-Zoroastrians are not allowed entry.
UDVADA BEACH:- A view of Udvada beach at "Low Tide".Definitely not a beach fit for swimming as although clean it has stones and rock pieces on its floor bed which is visible at this low tide.Akin to Mumbai there are palatial bungalows facing this beach .
"Sir Ratan Tata Building" . A prominent landmark near Udvada beach.Preservation of the Old Parsi houses and prevention of construction of modern high rise buildings in "Atash Behram Udvada" is undertaken by the Gujarat State Government to preserve this historical religious township.
A glimpse of the beach side road of "Atash Behram Udwadia" township with its Old World palatial Parsi Bungalows and modern 21st century motorized vehicles.Picture card photo of tranquility and peace .
Finally after the visit to the desolate Udvada beach cruised around the tiny township and finally at approximately 1145 hrs rode out of the gates of "Atash Behram Udvada".This township in a remote corner of India amazed me by the fact that it was the seat of India's wealthiest community and yet so unassuming and ordinary.It was a long drive in the hot blazing sun towards "Highway "NH8" and encountered traffic congestion at the Udvada railway crossing between Udvada town and the main highway road. Finally was on familiar "Highway NH8" and cruising towards destination "Dadra and Nagar Haveli" union territory.
Bridge on Highway "NH 8 " over the North banks of the Daman Ganga river flowing through the Industrial town of Vapi.There is a dam across this river . In peak monsoon flooding this entire river bed is submerged upto the mid-level mark of the bridge supporting beams.
At 1220 hrs finally riding past Vapi and the Daman Ganga river bridge took the left turn from Highway "NH 8" towards the highway leading to the Union Territory of Dadra Nagar and Haveli. It was a hot afternoon with no drizzle a rare total dry day in peak Monsoon season .
Finally entering the Union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli.The geographical enclave of Nagar Haveli is wedged between the States of Gujarat and Maharashtra while Dadra situated 1 Km Northwest is surrounded by the State of Gujarat.This Union territory was ruled by the Portuguese from 1783 to 1954 when it was liberated by INdian forces. But it was not until the liberation of Goa, Daman and Diu from Portuguese rule in 1961 that Dadra Nagar and Haveli was formally merged with the Republic of India.India has a total of 29 States and 7 Union territories . Dadra and Nagar Haveli covers a total area of 487 Sq Km with Silvassa as the capital.
At 1245 hrs finally reached Khanvel locality of Silvassa which is the main city centre .Parked my bike at the tribal museum complex and first visited this art gallery situated just opposite the "Tribal Museum".Tribal paintings by the "Warli Tribe" are the most popular paintings on sale .After visiting this museum couldn't visit the "Tribal Museum" situated just opposite this art gallery as it was closed for lunch hours. Decided to ride to Madhuban Dam Viewpoint which was a distance of 11 kms from this locale via Khanvel road.
Classic Motorbiking through lush greenery on the way to Madhuban Viewpoint.Excellent road.
MADHUBAN DAM VIEWPOINT :- Finally at 1230 hrs reached the peak of this tiny hill which was the garden of "Madhuban Dam Viewpoint". Was amazed at the beauty of the Dam and the surrounding villages as seen from the viewpoint. As it was monsoon season the entire land mass on the periphery of the dam was a carpet of natural green vegetation.This Dam is built approximately 40 Kms downstream of the river Daman Ganga .The construction of this dam has resulted in a few water bodies near Dudhani which is 40 Kms from Silvassa. Water sports and boat rides can be enjoyed by tourists at Dudhani which also has campsites for overnight stay's .Having served for 23 years in the Merchant Navy and at present indulging in a fitness swimming regime of 2 Kms daily in Mumbai post sea employment retirement meant that "Water Sports" to me was akin to asking a jockey if he liked horse joy rides ! After enjoying the scenic view from Madhuban Dam Viewpoint rode back towards Silvassa City centre in Khanvel.
Liquor in Silvassa is tax free and hence one of the main reasons for holidaying in Silvassa during the summer months.On arrival in Khanvel parked my bike in the parking lot of the Triba Museum/Art gallery and casually inquired about the watering hole restaurants in the vicinity . At 1500 hrs lunch at the classic open air garden restaurant of " Hotel Natraj" was a Carlsberg beer washed down with "Mutton Masala/Roti's". Excellent and the beer was cheap at Rs 100/ bottle and was a bit sad that riding meant a check on liquor consumption.
OUR LADY OF PIETY CHURCH :- After a sumptuous lunch walked the short distance from "Hotel Natraj" back to the Tribal Museum . The landmark "Lady of Piety Church" is situated opposite the "Tribal Museum" facing the main road.Architecturally this church is considered one of the most beautiful Christian church in the World. The Church main entrance was closed and hence couldn't view the interior of this landmark Catholic church built by the Portuguese in 1897. In 1912 this church was damaged in a Earthquake and closed for repairs and renovation. The Church was reopened in 1924 and at present is managed by the society of Pila of Silvassa.
TRIBAL CULTURAL MUSEUM IN SILVASSA :- Entrance to the museum is free and photography inside the museum prohibited.The main purpose of this museum is to preserve the local tribal culture .Tribal Masks, hunting tools,local tribal musical instruments,tribal kitchen appliances and fishing equipment are some of the exhibits on display inside this small excellently maintained museum. Photographs of tribal rituals and festivals are also exhibited along with tribal dolls and puppets.
VANGANGA LAKE GARDEN :- From the "Tribal Cultural Museum" rode 8 Kms backwards towards Vapi on the "Vapi-Silvassa" road to reach Vanganga lake garden .Entrance fee to the garden was Rs 20 and on entering the garden was in the midst of a beautiful lake with jogging tracks and walkways along the 7 Hectares garden There is a small island in the middle of this lake which is connected to the mainland garden by this Japanese style bridge. This garden is popular among film makers for shooting song sequences . After a brief glimpse of the garden rode back to Silvassa city centre in Khanvel.
TOWN HALL AND CLOCK TOWER :- My last stop on the route back to Mumbai was at the Silvassa Town Hall situated in close proximity to the "Tribal Cultural Museum".. The Clock Tower is a iconic structure as also the Town hall building. The Clock tower was functioning and the time can be seen on this iconic tower .A local cultural programme was in progress in the Town hall building .
Finally at approximately 1700 hrs began my ride from Silvassa to Mumbai .
Monsoon Motorcycle Riding.
The 175 Kms ride back to Mumbai was excellent with a cloudy sky but absolutely no rainfall.At certain sections of the highway clocked 100 Kms ++ and did come across a group of "Superbikers" who just breezed past me on their powerful bikes.The backdrop of the dark green hills on both sides of the highway made me forget my fatigue .As usual on approaching the Dahisar Naka Checkpoint the reality hit me that i was now entering the locale of concrete jungle Mumbai.As i work from home rarely travel outside the precincts of Prabhadevi and these rare occasional rides made me realize the reason for Mumbai receiving the dubious title of the World's traffic congestion capital.From 100 Kms ++ i was moving at a snails pace once inside Mumbai city and patiently at 2000 hrs finally arrived home in Prabhadevi, End of the day's exploratory ride to Udvada and Silvassa as also a break from my monotonous desk job at home.
